This is an alternate entry into Krakengard that adds a techy boulder problem at the start. Stick clip the first bolt below the fixed chain draw, boulder up to the ledge, and then continue into Krakengard.

Lehman Leftovers

What's Kraken?

Newt Route

Metamorph

Boogie Shoes

Left of Death

Dead Tree Society

Krakengard

Taylormade

Boogie Choose

Hafgufa

Landspout

Iron Broccoli

Romarête

Fart Exhibit

An equally as fun moderate finish that starts on Krakengard, sharing the first three bolts and breaking right after the long permadraw.  Climb the jagged undercling feature on your way to the chains.

Another great introductory climb in Piney Creek, easy ledge/slab climbing with an optional harder direct start through the slab under the first bolt.  This is also the first half of boogie shoes and does not share any bolts with Taylormade to the left

Perform metamorphosis by climbing into the cool cocoon feature and hatching to climb the rest of the pitch.   Unclip first bolt after clipping second to reduce rope drag.

I want to put on my my my my my climbing shoes! Climb Newt Route, do not clip the anchors, instead clip a lone bolt to the right and establish on the ledge.  A tricky pull onto the slab and out the slight roof puts you on the techy arête.  Be careful moving off of ledge to start the climb, ledge fall potential.

Climb the crack, placing great protection from great stances. Once the crack begins to diminish, move left, clipping the last three bolts of Metamorph (pre-existing sport route) as you head to its anchors. Two foot slings are recommended on the bolts to prevent rope-drag.

It is as if a chunk of the New River got dropped into the Piney Creek Gorge.  Climb the the obvious crack that splits the sail-like rolling slab. Tricky laybacks and jamming will lead to a fun pull into a corner before exiting onto the exposed slab just before the chains.  Clip the chains and join the society.

Unleash the Kraken! Climb the mega flake past two bolts, clip the long permadraw protecting the traverse section and pull the ledge. After the permadraw, stay on the left bolt line. A mega undercling feature will allow you to clip the next bolt before pulling the crux.  A fun boulder problem with a spicy finish after the second permadraw guards the chains.   A Piney Creek classic no doubt.

The first route bolted at Piney Creek Crag!  Great introductory climb with easy slab/ledge climbing.  Climbing this route will give you easy top access for the next three routes to the right if you want to set up top ropes for the rest of your party.

Probably the best entry into the second "pitch" arête established by Jon Sheldon as Boogie Shoes. Climb the bouldery arete of Romarête, clip one of the anchor bolts, and pull the ledge past the "dog ear." Finish with thought provoking moves on Boogie Shoes and a heady finish.

Really fun shapes and holds on this cool column resembling a small twister. Climb in or around the water column feature, your choice!

Scramble up the bottom 15 feet to a high first bolt, be careful of loose rock in this section, then move right to climb the water column shaped feature.  Pull some ledges leading to a relaxed corner stance before stepping out onto the slab to clip the chains.

Climb the arete and find good holds in the water groove and on the left face to pull the blocky roof. Make sure the belayer stays close to the wall on this one so if you fall at the crux on the arête you don't get thrown into the spin cycle by the rope catching your feet.

Climb the ledges to start in the crack flake and pull some fun moves aiming for the diagonal crack in the top band of rock. A stick clip off the ledge is recommended for the first bolt.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Piney Creek Watershed