Start about 4 feet to the left of the obvious (difficult) crack. Move through the huecos to reach a ledge, move left and up through a few balance moves onto nice jugs. It is a fun route.

West Face [The Capstan]

Oxman Arete (aka Daydreamer Direct SDS)

The Trough Direct SDS

Just Right

The Privy

South Crack

The Urinal

Xander Oxman established this problem a while back, and apparently since then a number of holds have eroded- but the problem has been re-opened. This is definitely an enjoyable line despite being somewhat of a link up between 'The Trough' (V4/5 from 1961!!) and '

Just Right

'.

This problem begins down and right of '

Just Right

'. Start with your left hand on a poor pinch, your right on a large pebble and you ass just barely off the ground. Reach right to a sharp crimp and continue through a series of power-moves until you reach the crimp-rail lip. Match here, and continue powering left on small crimps, with awkward feet until you reach the sloping pocket on '

Just Right

'. Top out as for '

Just Right

'.

This is a great problem that has some really fun powerful moves. It starts with a low sds right hand on a large cobble and your left hand on a small sidepull down really low or in a tiny mono. Your feet are smearing on some small pebble patches and never really feel solid.

Once you manage to pull off the ground, start by going up left hand to a poor sidepull pinch and make a strong move right to a good sharp edge. Get your feet up and cross into another sharp pinch. Finally go up left hand to an OK crimp, and make a fun lock off move up and right to the 'Trough'.

It's suggested that once you make your way into the hole (Trough) you should either jump off or make some sketchy moves out right and walk off on the boulder that is leaning up against the east face of the Capstan Rock. Another option is to top out direct and descend the north face to the road.

This is a historic Flagstaff testpiece and definitely the most public of Flagstaff's harder problems, sitting only 15 feet from the road.

Just Right climbs the overhanging southeast side of Capstan Rock and is above the right edge of the platform facing the road. It features an obvious lunge move to a sloping but well-textured pocket high and right.

Originally (and most commonly) done with a cheater stone start that allows you to reach the opposing sidepulls seven feet up, Just Right has also been done at V10 from the low start by Skip Guerin and Ben Moon. There used to be a perfect cheater stone in place for this problem, but it was built into the retaining wall next to the boulder. Now people either stack up pads or make a small cairn of sorts to gain the holds.

Muckle on to the opposing sidepulls, lunge for the pocket, kick your feet back on, and crimp your way over the slabby lip. A Chris Hill problem, Just Wrong, hits the pocket with the left hand instead.

Should you despair in your bid for summit glory bear in mind that Colin Lantz did this thing in Tevas with a lit cigarette in his mouth on a greasy summer evening.

That should light a bit of a fire under your ass....

This is the COVETED link-up of "

The Urinal

" and "

Oxman Arete

" ;)

If you want to touch every sharp hold on The Capstan, try this one.

Beta video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zmsC0JOdcjA

.

This is a good highball up the obvious slippery crack facing the road. The crux is at the beginning, maybe .11- or so finger jamming, above the hardest stuff is some 5.9 climbing to a stance 25 feet above the ground, from here one can downclimb to the east (very tricky, downclimbing mid fith class climbing) or continue on some 5.8 slab to the summit (almost soloing now). This route can be toproped too.

The true sit start to "

the Trough SDS

"... starts way to the left in the big (urinal shaped) "Hueco"....climbs into "the

Trough SDS

" via the foot rail of "

Just Right

" and a small pebble and some really fancy footwork....

Beta video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=igrF__Dwsok

.

Description

Protection

Routes in The Capstan