Route was established ground-up during the summer of '05.  This is definitely an old school style meadows route.   The bolts aren't exactly where you want or need them but where they could be drilled.   Though the hardest move is protected fairly well.  The second pitch is probably the mental crux with only 5 bolts in 200' of sustained 5.10 climbing with one 10+ move way above a bolt.  This pitch might be tad longer than 200' so be ready to simul a small bit or bring a longer rope.

Pitch 4 shares some climbing with an unreported route, Quasimodo,  established by Tom Carter back in the day.  Really fun and exposed pitch.  Pitch 5 holds the hardest technical bits and require solid footwork and mantling ability.  The end of this pitch pulls a really cool roof that Fairest of All traverses underneath.  This actually makes a much better exit for Fairest of All as it avoids the funky and long traverse out right.  Hemispheres could also be exited this way.

Overall this is high quality and extremely engaging route on excellent rock.  Classic Fairview Dome.

Possibly only repeated once by Bob Jensen and Sean Kriletich less than a week after the FA.

Retrospective

Mr. Burk

Unh-Huh

Night Shift

Heart of Stone

La Bella Luna

Roseanne

What Would Jeff Do

Magical Mystery Tour

Great Pumpkin

Lucky Streaks

Plastic Exploding Inevitable

Mithrandir

Twinkletoes

Sorcerer's Apprentice

This route was almost completed by Jeff Schoen (RIP) and was finished by his friends. It is a very fun adventure that is very well protected by Fairview standards. The 11b crux on pitch 7 involves monkeying on jugs through a roof - a very memorable pitch. Second hardest pitch (pitch 2 at 11a) involves sustained edging and is great for testing your mettle before jumping on the more scantily protected lines as the falls are reasonably safe. The topo is easy to follow. It seemed like everyone I knew climbed the route shortly after the FA (ca. 2009), but it has since fallen into obscurity. I thought that it is one of the finest offerings on the dome, so go get on it.

Start off 50' left of Sorcerers Apprentice. Follow faint crack corner through a series of small roofs/ bulges. continue up face and small crack to obvious first anchor. begin second pitch at steep knobby crux, work up and left through 5.10 slab moves to prominent bolted anchor at ledge. traverse right through 5.12 face moves or tension traverse on aid.continue up through crack and face features to next obvious ledge shared with scavenger.( scavenger anchor is approximately30' on left

This is another in the long line of runout, moderately protected Tuolumne face routes.  Note that the 5.9+ face move on pitch 5 is poorly protected for the second who could face a huge swing out into space if they fell off(I witnessed this and it wasn't pretty!)

Wow, this thing is hard. My big toes still hurt three days later and Im not sure if I ever want to get back up there. The line is a little contrived but none the less its still a good rock climb and youll have a fun time trying to move off those dime edges.

For the first three pitches the route follows the large black steak between the Regular Route and Heart of Stone. On pitch four traverse right along the dike for about twenty feet and head up the thin golden plates (these are your hand and foot holds). Pitch five is the crux, much similar to pitch four just harder. Three more pitches of easier climbing bring you to the large U-shaped ledge. From there you can rappel (two rope required) or climb two easy pitches to the top of the dome.

You wont get lost on this climb because its heavily bolted almost the whole way. The last two pitches wander a little but theres enough bolts to keep you on track, bring some 1/4 to 1 inch cams for these pitches.

Pitch 1: 5.10c slab climbing past 6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor at top

Pitch 2: 5.10d mixed climbing past two bolts. Thin lay back through the crux. Two bolt anchor.

Pitch 3: 5.10d thin corner of mixed climbing with two bolts. Thin seam climbing. Don't miss the second bolt after the end of the first corner. Watch the rock quality on the first half of the pitch.

Pitch 4: 5.10b/c Slab climbing, trending left, past three bolts up to big ledge with a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 5: Blocky 5.7 corner. Set the belay at the top of the blocks. #1-3 gear anchor.

Pitch 6: The pitch!!! Start with hands to thin hands up to the first roof corner. Lay back up the finger crack. Stem rest when you can. Finish through thin roof traversing left to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 7: Traverse left, place gear in seams and then bust the 5.10 improbable mantle move to the first bolt. Then keep mantling past another bolt to a right ascending crack on easy terrain to a single bolt which you can back up with a #1-2 cam.

Pitch 8: 5.10 b slab climbing trending right to a gear anchor on a ledge.

Pitch 9: Traverse right and pull through steep knobs to a single bolt, then traverse slightly left and then right. Don't miss the single bolts, which is more RIGHT then the route suggests. Belay with a single bolt anchor back up with #1-2 cams.

Pitch 10: Clip bolt right at the roof and pull the improbable 5.11c mantle move. When that is done move up and slightly right past bolts. Gear anchor.

Pitch 11: Easy terrain to the top.

A cool line up the beautiful buttress between Roseanne and Lucky Streaks.  Golden knobs, mixed climbing, run-outs, route finding finishing on Roseanne's awesome final roof.

P1:  Start up the Roseanne dihedral about 50 feet, cut left on big knobs to a bolt, run-out 5.8 straight up to another bolt and a bolted belay.  (5.8PG 160 feet)

P2:  Hard moves straight up off the belay to first bolt, climb a long ways up drifting slightly right to bolt 2, bolt 3 is straight above, head up on beautiful golden knobs and some edges drifting a hair left, about 35 feet out of sustained 5.9 climbing reach a white dike and look left along the dike to spot a great and welcome jug.  Figure out how to reach the jug and stand on it (5.10a/b R).  Bolt 4 is another 10 feet above this.  Head up and left to bolt 5 around golden polish, real near the big right facing corner.  Bolt 6 is up and right about 15 feet with some cool moves and the technical crux.  Straight up to hit the top of the corner and a good fixed pin.  Up to a rusted 1/4" spinner and right to the bolted belay.  (5.10b 165 feet)

P3:  Straight up knobs to a bolt, cut left to a giant knob cluster (5.10b) and up a nice right facing low angle crack with finger to hand size pro.  Follow this up and right (5.7) until it ends and work up and right past a series of super cool bottoming cracks some that take pro (5.8) to the last bolt of the 5.11b bolt line to the right (this loose and contrived route actually).  Continue straight up to the large and aesthetic belay ledge - gear belay 1/2" - 2" cams.  (5.9 165 feet)

P4:  From the right (south) end of the ledge work up and right on nice knobs, head up to an obvious large knob that could be slung up to a rusty 1/4" bolt (5.8R).  Make a delicate traverse right (5.9 scary for follower) and finish on the roof pitch of Roseanne.  Gear belay above.

Cruz low angle 3rd or 4th class to the down climb.

This route takes a nice line to the left of the Great Pumpkin.  It is a quasi "old school" route designed for the leader who has their lid screwed on pretty tight.  There are some lengthy runouts on easy ground and a spot of routefinding thrown in for good measure.  The knobs are dandy and the polish is mirrorlike.  It is said this route is a better version of the Great Pumpkin.  Maybe give this one a try instead of standing in line over at the Pumpkin.

Pitch #1: Motor up the easy corner and lob in a few cams as you go. There is a bolt at the top of the corner before you start moving right and into a few cruxy moves. Watch out for rope drag. 3 bolts total on the pitch, then a 4 bolt (two that are good) belay.

Pitch #2: Undercling up an left out of the station on some very loose plates. Clip the bolt and begin to move right and up and across the polish. You can stuff some small gear into a flake after you move right and climb up a bit. Eventually get to the right facing corner where you can lob in a nut or some cams. Belay is at the top of this corner. 3 bolts on the pitch, then a 2 bolt belay.

Pitch #3: Run it out straight up to a bolt and then continue moaning upward and slightly right. If you are lucky you will find a small flake that takes 3/4" to 1" cams. Continue straight up from this flake until you either hit a rusted 1/4" bolt or the anchor. 1 good bolt, and 1 bad hidden bolt on the pitch, then a 2 bolt belay.

Pitch #4: Go up toward the big roof and maybe plug in a 1.5" cam as you turn the corner. Exit the roofs on the right via a 5.4 ramp and look for a fixed pin about half way out. Run the rope all the way back onto the slab to belay. Overlaps up there will take small to medium cams for an anchor. No bolts, set an anchor on top.

Outstanding low-angle knob climbing. Quite runout, but solid feeling. Very worth doing, especially on your way down after a larger Fairview route.

P1- Wander your way up a small right-facing corner, placing a couple of small pieces, and eventually pull into the large black streak and begin climbing in a "sea of knobs", clipping one or two bolts along the way. End at a 2-bolt anchor that looks like it'll be jingus but actually has one good bolt. 5.7, 70m.

P2- Continue climbing up the amazing knobs in the black streak, clipping 2 bolts. End at a 2 bolt anchor. 5.8

P3- Climb knobs on an unprotected ever slabbing face to the top. 5.4

This excellent route is to the right of "Roseanne". The climbing is mostly easy with some exciting run-outs and routefinding.

Climb easy face to a ledge (5.4).

Climb up past a short left facing corner, then past a bolt, then up and right to a belay (5.8).

Climb up to a 5.8 lieback, which leads to a belay.

A left facing corner leads to another ledge (5.7).

From the right end of the ledge, climb 5.8 to a left facing corner, which leads to a belay with two bolts.

A 5.8 pitch leads past two bolts to a belay from three bolts.

Another 5.8 pitch leads past one bolt to the walk off.

This is a great and sustained route -- somewhat tough on the toes, but the crux is easy for the grade.  All-in-all the rock isn't quite as good as the Regular Route, but it is much steeper -- it's a toss up as to which one is the better route.

P1: Begin by a large block that is leaning against the dome.  Head up on somewhat low angle terrain with limited opportunities for pro, do a tough step left, then contour up and right and belay on an obvious platform ledge below the beginning of a long left-facing corner system.  5.9.

P2: Continue up on 5.9 climbing to another ledge below a thin finger crack.

P3: Climb up the finger crack past a crux move, and then onwards up a steep, left-leaning crack to a good belay.  5.10d.  I believe there is a 5.9 variation out right near the start that avoids the hard climbing but that it is of lesser quality.

P4: Continue up the steep corner using the crack and knobs.  5.9.

P5:  Perform a somewhat scary underclinging traverse left and around to another corner system and up this to a belay.  5.9.

P6:  Continue in the same system.  The climbing eases with the angle.  5.8

More info will follow -

Avoid the A4 section by getting on to the route left of PEI for a pitch, and then traversing right to get back on to PEI

This route is:

5.10- R

5.11- G

Shares pitches 1, 2, 3, and 6 with Sorcerer's Apprentice. This is a variation to that route.

I found and completed this old project while rebolting Sorcerer's Apprentice. Mithrandir is a bit less scary, as well as a bit more direct and sustained than the original route.

All hardware is 3/8" and stainless.

Pitch 1: 10a, 115'

Fun and well protected crack system. A bit grassy at the bottom.

Pitch 2: 10b, 130'

Continue up the good crack for another 30 feet, then traverse left to another crack. Tricky moves through a gold right facing corner, then traverse left again to another crack and the anchor.

Pitch 3: 11a, 115'

Follow the leftward crack to a bolt. Climb back down 10-15 feet, traverse left (11a) and back up to a pin, a bolt, and some 10- edging to the anchor.

Pitch 4: 5.9, 150'

5.7 knobs up and right with a knob tie off and a couple bolts for pro. Gain the ramp that brings you to a ledge and a bolt. Up and right to another left trending ramp. A short section of 5.9 guards the belay ledge.

Pitch 5: 5.11a, 115'

Edge and mantle past three bolts to gain the roof. Two more bolts protect fun climbing through steeper rock, then climb a left facing corner system. Natural anchor at good stance takes .5" to 2" cams. Sustained. Great pitch.

Pitch 6: 10b, 180'

Traverse right past a cool cave. A pin then three bolts protect more edging and slab climbing, then a right facing corner and easy terrain brings you to the top.

For what it's worth, of the 10 routes I've done on Fairview, Mithrandir is one of my favorites. It is one of my favorites in Tuolumne as a whole.

Pitch 1: 5.10a, 200 feet. Warmup pitch and headgame wellness check. To begin, follow two bolts and juggy knobs over a 5.9 bulge. Trend up and left to features that accept gear. Climb up to a stance then up nice knobs past 2 bolts. Another thinner feature above will accept a micronut and protect the moves up and right to another stance and bolt. A 2 bolt anchor equipped with rings is ten feet above that.

Pitch 2: 5.10c, 175 feet. Climb up and left to the obvious rightward trending crack system. Climb it until a fixed pin is reached, then break out onto the face to the left, reach juggy knobs and climb to a good stance above. Climb the bolt protected 10c flake and knobby face. The flake is hollow and detached but solid to climb on.

Pitch 3: 5.11a, 130 feet. Stellar! Climb the easy feature up and left towards the beautiful orange bulge. Clip three bolts while working through the awesome 11a sequence that leads to a right facing corner. Place gear in the top of the corner then climb the face to the left, straight up past another bolt to the anchor.

Pitch 4: 5.10a, 165 feet. Follow three bolts up and left over patina, knobs, and edges. Climb up, placing pro in the two shallow right facing systems. Ignore the old off-route bolt off to the right. Gain the knobs and 3 bolts that guide you up and left to an anchor below the corner/roof/arch.

Pitch 5: 5.9, 165 feet. Climb the right facing corner then step left to steep but good knobs and a bolt. Climb up and trend right over moderate terrain, placing gear in several overlaps as you go. Terrain is 5.7ish but knobs are more friable up here (unlike the generally stellar rock quality of the other pitches). Bolted anchor on stance marks the route's summit.

Great route with some stellar climbing.

All anchors are on good stances or ledges.

A legit Fairview route, expect 5.9R climbing and headgame elements to every pitch. However, all harder climbing is protected.

All hardware is modern, stainless, and bomber.

Enjoy!

The crux is a section of 5.11A slab that's a little run out, but over a shiny, retrofitted bolt.  You should link the 5.8 and 5.9 runout pitches because there's really isn't any protection, save for a couple quarter inch rusty bolts and occassional pro so it's easy to link them.  All the other pitches are pretty well protected but you should be comfortable running it out over easier terrain.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in West Face