The cruz start makes you reach long over a bulge to a less than great pocket . From there pull the bulge and gun for a diagonal side pull. some more kind-of-thin climbing leads to better huecos up top . An excellent route with its own TR anchors. The start is about 20 left of the big land mark boulder. Mostly solid and clean as far as quality is concerned...

Amphibian Anarchy

Kingsnake

The Lizard Conspiracy

Newt-ist Colony

This route starts out overhanging and then eases considerably after you gain the ledge above the crux. The crux is low on the route in the overhanging section and involves strong moves between somewhat large holds with some awesome body positioning given the location of the useable footholds. It may also be possible to traverse in low from the right via a horizontal crack. This steep climbing low on the route is pumpy and very fun. Once you're on the ledge above the low crux continue up on large huecos then either make a short traverse left out of the steeper section (easier), or directly up out of the cavelike steep section on huecos and crimps (harder). Continue up on good pockets around fragile flakes and knobs. The rock is pretty amazingly featured. Be careful not to pull off the fragile features; there are plenty of solid pinches and dishes to climb on around them. Be careful of snagging the rope on the many chickenheads and flakes and be ready to flip the rope free of the them. Also, be attentive of rockfall since many of the features are fragile and can break. The belayer should wear a helmet.

Typical sandstone face route, lots of huecos for your climbing pleasure.

Description

Protection

Routes in Newt Rock