An outstanding route located in the round, amphitheater portion of The Main Wall. Thin ledges down low lead to a shallow dihedral and a large flake located below the anchors. Precise footwork on meager footholds will help alleviate some of the pump at several clip stances. The rock in this area tends to hold chalk even after a rain, so don't be surprised if you feel like the holds have already been "ticked".

The Wizard

Short Vacation

Three Sheets To The Wind

For Themasses

Triple Header

Unknown (Right of Triple Play)

Let Freedom Ping

Community Service

The Fish

Bad Santa

Lugee Head

Ecstatic Electricity

Where the Buffalo Roam

Common Wealth

Massive Headwound Harry

Four Play

Unnamed Mixed Route

I Been Robbed

Unknown 5.6

Litheon Flux

Unknown (Right of Four Play)

Valentine Arete

For the People

Valentine Corner

Last Lonely Eagle

Triple Play

Did You See That?

Welcome to Milagrosa

Stealin

Unknown (Left of I Been Robbed)

Send It

The Fish starts with two bolts of moderate climbing to a large ledge.  After another two bolts the climber can optionally transition off-route for a full rest.  The route comes into its own after this section.  Ascend a series of smooth crimps using delicate feet to obtain a deep in-cut.  Power through to a featured horizontal weakness that allows some recovery.  Climb the dark rock using two finger crimps, a small pocket, and shallow edges.  The path of least resistance may require some trial and error. 

The Fish has the reputation of being a bad route; however, I personally found it quite enjoyable.  While certainly not a classic like The Wizard, The Fish has interesting movement on nice rock.  The two ledges detract from the route but the top sequence is sustained enough for me.

Another good warm up for your day at Milagrosa.

This route has a cool crux move and the bolt will keep you well off the ledge.  The second ledge doesn't come into play as the lack of holds forces you on to the overhanging face.  Great stances before each of the 3 hard sections mean you don't have to be an enduro king.  I say stances but really it is the ground where you start and the two ledges you can completely recover on.

A thin crux down low and a wide crux up high. Some good hand jams are up there for those willing to find them! 

Very first route you encounter when hiking to the Main Wall (far right side of main wall if viewed from across the canyon).

Climb bolt line using arete if needed over the first of 2 small roofs.  Use will find some relief by using the crack on your left as you approach the upper roof.  Anchors are just below large overhanging block.

Short but fun face climbing in between For the People and Commonwealth. One of the easier routes in the area and a good recent addition for beginners.

Clean rock, moderately pumpy, great warm-up.  It was my friend's first .10a lead so it also good for new 10 leaders.

Sustained face climbing up dark rock.    Shares anchors with Short Vacation.

Steep face. PUMP up to a ledge, then to the top of the cliff.

Probably the easiest sport route at the main wall.  This is a good warm up for Valentine's Arete.

Climbs a blunt arete on good edges with a fun balance move getting to the 3rd bolt. The "guide" calls it 11a, but I climbed it before I knew the rating and thought it felt like 10c/d...since I don't typically flash 11a on Mt Lemmon.

Relative low angle (not slabby) and very thin holds on a long and fairly sustained route.  Great protection and quality rock make this a route to do.

5.9 layback crack then bolted face up top. Face is probably 10a if you go right for a rest and 10b if you go straight up.

I thought this route was called Stealin' but it is actually I've Been Robbed.  See comments. 

  It is a short climb that packs a lot in.  I like starting in the crack and ignoring all of the big holds to the left.  It makes the climb more challenging and forces you to make some stylish moves.  The crux near the top of the route involves pulling on pretty small holds.

This dihedral climb protects well, with mostly no-hands clipping stances.  Fun stemming leads to hand jams and jugs.  Some loose/hollow-sounding rocks, but nothing too scary.  The final 10 feet are overhanging with beautiful jugs.

Fun climbing on good edges. Rest on the ledge if you're pumped, 'cause the crux is at the top.

This is the obvious corner right of Four Play. The climbing is enjoyable and never harder than moderate 5.9. This climb is worth doing if you have the correct rack.

The beginning is a bit stout for a 5.8.  Good warm-up.

This pitch was established in hopes to increase the amount of moderate climbs available for the people who just might not be at the 5.11 heaven level. The top is steep and fun.  Keep your eyes out for the jugs. Be aware that the route climbs through a chossy black band of rock.  This detracts from the overall quality of the pitch.

I'm not sure if this has a name or who did the first ascent. Maybe someone will let us know when they see this. Climb the corner to the left of Valentine Arete route. The only anchor in the area is to climb up and right to use the anchor on Valentine Arete. Be careful if you do this!

Steep face moves get you to a huge ledge and then 12 more feet get you to the chains.

Worth doing despite some choss and dirt, if you brought your rack.  The main roof and the bulge just following are fun, then the quality deteriorates.  You can finish at the anchors of either the 12a to the left, or the 10 to the right (recommended as it does add one more fun move at the top).

Another stop in the "not necessarily worth bringing your rack for but worth doing if you brought your rack" tour, aka the Milagrosa trad circuit. 

 In John Hinrichson's on-line guide he says that a "thin crack (5.8) with good gear leads to a ledge; walk left to larger crack (5.10) that takes good but slightly tricky pro. A variation is to follow the finger crack (5.10) to the anchors of Welcome to Milagrosa." After reaching the ledge the finger crack appeared to be the better choice as the big crack/chimney looks pretty chossy. Indeed, while climbing the finger crack I found myself stemming over to the big crack on a few occasions and on one of those occasions the rock on the side of the big crack broke, sending me for a ride on a green C3 which thankfully held. Next time I'll forgo the stem rests, tempting as they are, and just climb up the finger crack which is pretty fun with a bulging crux move near the top. The finger crack is a little chossy but good gear and solid locks can be found.

 As is typical of Milagrosa gear routes, this won't be mistaken for a classic but is worth doing if you brought your rack.

Neat route with fun moves and good rock. You can do a 5.8 crack start to the ledge if you don't want to climb the face.

Climb obvious bolt line using sidepulls and good edges up steep wall and over roof.  Roof is protected by two bolts.

This climb is unnamed and rated 5.10 in the Tucson Select Sport Climbing book.  It has some hard moves and the clips are very tricky and sketchy on the lower part.  The crux move feels harder than straight 5.10.

Send it goes up the face to the obvious roof to the right of Valentine Arete.

A popular wall with the greatest concentration of climbs in thge canyon. Beautiful smooth orange faces with lots of crimps, as well as two of the canyon's most popular routes, Community Service (.10a) and Valentine Arete (.8) The northerly orientation make this a good place to chase shade, but that means it can be cold on chilly winter days. Gets some late-afternoon sun, which really makes the rock glow.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Main Wall