An older variation of the Rifle guidebook describes The Chain Gang,  a series of routes in the single-pitch Arsenal, as the best multipich sport climb in Colorado, marred only by the fact that you have to lower to the ground after every pitch.  

  Well, I would call Astroboy one of the best multi-pitch trad climbs in the country, marred only by the fact that you have to walk back to the base after every pitch. Astroboy is arguably the classiest of the numerous Devil's Lake linkups.  

  The rule is pretty simple: Lead 10 different 5.10s on the East Rampart. But wait, you say, I can think of 5, 6, even 7 good 5.10 leads on the East, but 10, how can I find 10 leads? Therein lies the difficulty of Astroboy. You have to lead some routes that, let's be honest, you wouldn't normally think of leading. When was the last time you led The Monster? Or Mongo Fury (Burt, you don't count!)? Or Pine Box? And maybe consider adding Thoroughfare, because, I don't know about you, but I'd rather lead Thoroughfare than, say, Big Deal.  

  Here's the order I chose for Astroboy: 

  1. Mongo Fury   2. Sometimes   3. Flake Route   4. Congrats   5. Pine Box (DON'T tell me it's 5.9+)   6. Thoroughfare   7. Callipigeanous   8. Mouse's Misery   9. Cheatah   10. Alpha Centauri 

  But that's what I chose. Page through the guidebook, talk to your partner, and make your own plan. And then be prepared to change your plan when your chosen route is swarming with Boy Scouts. Also be prepared to hang out in the Cool Lot (is that even still a thing?) after your long day. Over beers and beta spray, casually remark that you climbed Astroboy, and that Pine Box wasn't so bad, and that Mongo Fury is a neglected classic, and that you just had one of your best days at the Lake. Ever.

Astroboy

Pseudo Ridge

Chivalrous Arches

Noble Arches

Kolbig's Stampede

Massive Major Multi-Pitch

Noble Odyssey

The Big EZ

North Shore Lunch Circuit

Eastbound and Down

Balanced Rock Ridge

La Monte-à-Regret

Named for the classic Royal Arches (5.10- or 5.7 A0), Noble Arches attempts to approximate the amount and difficulty of climbing on its Yosemite namesake. Noble Arches links approximately 1600 feet of climbing over 25 pitches at an average grade of 5.6. 

Noble Arches is great training for any long, moderate, route - just about anywhere. Completing it will require careful planning, efficient climbing and efficient changeovers. Be prepared for a long day of varied climbing. Aside from being a great training piece, Noble Arches will take you on a tour of some of the Lake's most classic routes, some of its obscure gems, and some its best grovels. 

  The linkup consists of the following 25 pitches: 

  01. Easy Overhang

  02. F4 Ledges

  03. Birch Tree Crack

  04. The Pedestal (pitch 1)   05. The Pedestal (pitch 2)   06. The Spine

  07. Boy Scout

  08. Brinton's Crack

  09. Berkeley

  10. The Rack

  11. The Grotto

  12. Vacillation

  13. Full Stop

  14. Anemic Ladder

  15. Peter's Project

  16. Michael's Project

  17. Horticulture

  18. PushMi, Pull-Yu

  19. Coatimundi Crack

  20. False Alarm Jam

  21. Double Overhang

  22. Foreplay

  23. Northwest Crack/Arete

  24. The Pretzel

  25. Charybdis

Are you bored? Maybe training for the mountains? If you answered "Yes!" to either of these questions, then Pseudo Ridge might be for you. 

  Begin by choosing a route on 13: Four Brothers for your first pitch. 

  Follow that up by moving the belay and climbing The Pretzel. 

  For the third and fourth pitches scramble up a two-tiered ridge forming Pseudo Skyline to the the top of 15: Pseudo Hawk's Nest. The third and fourth pitches go at 3rd and easy 5th class respectively.

Want a casual day on the move? Training for the mountains? Learning the terrain for your new guiding job? Warming up for Noble Arches? This linkup is an amalgam of the East Rampart's best easy terrain. Toprope or lead all of these things, in a day, in any order you'd like. I've avoided most of the routes on Noble Arches. For the real "work at a guide service" experience, build toprope anchors on each route, rap in, and climb out in your approach shoes.ZigzagDarkness at NoonChimney's EndPuff n' Grunt ChimneyFull StopSchizophreniaModerationDyspepsiaAnemiaLichenVerticultureDouble OverhangBalconyMezzanineSecond BalconyCerebrationUrve's FollyFoliageGravel PitDrunken SailorCrackin' UpChicken DelightBeginner's DelightDeath & TransfigurationBucket Brigade

A linkup combining the steps of Lothar’s Ledges, and a pitch on both Horse Rampart and Pony Barricade. This outing is comparable to other linkups in the park, requiring a little time scrambling through the talus and relatively short walks between pitches. A number of variations exist, allowing you to choose your own adventure. Named after Lothar Kolbig, former president of the Chicago Mountaineering Club (CMC) who was heavily active in the 1940’s and 1950’s. 

A nice little way to link a few pitches below Devil's Doorway.

 Pitch 1: Kenosis (5.4) or Dippy Diagonal (5.7). If you take Dippy; you can stem left near the top and finish on the upper-section of Kenosis to build an anchor on the ledge above Kenosis (which is far more convenient for the next pitch than topping-out on Dippy proper). The large pine at the top of Kenosis serves as an excellent belay anchor, but there is an alternate (and probably more convenient for the next pitch) anchor that can be built in a horizontal on the right wall before crossing the gully to the next pitch.

 Pitch 2: Goodbye Youth (5.5) or Mindless Dribble (5.8). Cross the gully from the belay ledge and choose the next pitch. An aesthetic way to do pitch two is start up Mindless Dribble and then traverse into Goodbye Youth with your hands at the upper-horizontal. This traverse can be reasonably protected (for the second as well) with a BD X4 #0.1.

 Pitch 3: Angel's Crack (5.6) or Jolly Roger (5.8). Move the belay 10-15 meters West to the base of the tower and climb either route to a great finish with excellent views of Devil's Doorway.

 Of course many variations are possible beyond those listed here, but these pitches make for a nice outing that flows relatively well.

Want to climb 50 routes in a day? Want to climb about the same vertical as El Capitan?Noble Odyssey boards at the start of the East Rampart on Ship’s Prow, then takes you through Scylla and Charybdis at the west end of the rampart before returning you to where you started, longing for home.This link up is built upon James Schroeder;s beautiful Noble Arches and most of Ben Smith;s Chivalrous Arches, with substitutions to the latter for grade and theme. Along the way, you will climb on every major feature of the East Rampart. You’ll experience every style of climbing the lake has to offer, on some of the most classic moderate routes as well as hidden gems. You will also suffer through some rites of passage.Devil’s Lake notoriously has many routes piled on top of one another. Know and climb the full-value lines for each route to have the greatest sense of accomplishment at the end of your journey. This list maxes at 5.8 and averages 5.5; make substitutions as appropriate for your level and leave a comment below about your personal odyssey!The order in which you climb the routes is up to you, but for best thematic value start on Ships Prow and return to D’Arcy’s Buttress for your final lead.

A tour de force by Eric in the late 90s, and perhaps the single most impressive day of climbing ever done at the lake.

 Climb the big three of Rubberman (5.13b), Ice (5.13), and Dyslexia (5.13c), and tack on 9 more pitches of 5.12 for good measure.  I don't know all the pitches that Eric climbed when he did it, but good options include:

 The Dog (5.12a) Angle of Dangle (5.12a) Acid Rock (5.12a) Crosstown Traffic (5.12a) Assume The Position (5.12b) Welfare Line (5.12b) All The Way (5.12c) Cheap Thrills (5.12c) Bagatelle (5.12c)

 Happy cranking!

If you've got a half hour, you're on the North Shore, and you want a good 5.10-5.11 workout session try this linkup: 

  Up Eubank's Lady Bits

  Dn Confidence Booster

  Up I Don't Know, B

  Dn Confidence Booster

  Up The Tullamore Dew Arete

  Dn Confidence Booster

  Up Welcome Face

  Up Purple Bud

  Up Welcome Crack 2

  Up Welcome Crack 1

  Up Welcome Chimney

  Up Welcome Crack

  Up Wild Turkey

  Up Special K

  Up Office Building

  Up Emily's Naptime

  Dn The Grenadine Corner

  Up Oil Can

  Dn The Grenadine Corner

  Your mileage may vary with respect to time, but this is a great way to log some mileage and get a quick workout in.

Eastbound and Down is a contrived linkup combining the eight recognized areas found on the East Bluff of Devils Lake State Park (1. Sandstone Area, 2. East of the Quarry, 3. West of the Quarry, 4. East Rampart, 5. Potholes Area, 6. Balanced Rock, 7. Railroad Tracks, and 8. North End). Any climb can be used in each of the eight areas, and the order in which you visit the areas is completely up to you. Focused less on the climbing, and more on route finding abilities, risk management, and one's ability to endure a long day of constant movement, this linkup makes for a creative day out.

Begin by picking a route on Balanced Rock Wall. Then, depending on your choice of route on Balanced Rock Wall either select a route in Box Canyon, or gain the ridge proper immediately to the northeast of Balanced Rock. After the pitch above Box Canyon the route becomes a combination of short, blocky, steps mixed with the occasional "gendarme". The exposure on the upper ridge is never tremendous, but there are some high consequence areas. Top out just below where the Balanced Rock Trail Joins the East Bluff Trail.

A short three pitch linkup starting midway up the CCC trail. Lead a climb at No Sweat, followed by one on the lower tier of The Guillotine, and finish on the tower at The Guillotine on the upper tier. As with most of these linkups, many variations exist.

Description

Protection

Routes in East Bluff Linkups