This climbs a slight corner system with a gorgeous black water streak down its left wall. The rock is of exceptional quality with a little liebacking, high-stepping, big jugs, and a stellar traverse on flat edges.

The lieback section near the start would likely be the crux for most people.

When you get to the penultimate bolt, go left and mantle up on the flat ledge and clip the anchors.

The pitch above through the golden/orange water steak is This Is A Lightsaber!

That's Not A Lightsaber

The Phantom Menace

This Is A Lightsaber!

Midichlorophobia

Millennium Falcon

The Force

Scum and Villainy

Jawa Jam

Spaceballs

Hyperspace

Star Destroyer

Triumphal Arch

Leia's Leash

Leia Needs A Lightsaber

This line climbs a beautiful orange water streak on some of the most amazing holds I've encountered on RC limestone.

To get to the route climb,

That's Not A Lightsaber

or

Star Destroyer

.

It's not a bad idea to stick clip the first bolt as blowing the moves right off the deck will land you right on your belayer.

The climb starts off steep with small edges for the right hand and big sidepull pinches for the left.

Around the 3rd bolt the real business begins, but some might be a little pumped at this point.

The next ten feet have some very unique holds with small two-finger, half-pad edges and a two-finger "twisty" pocket. (You'll see what I mean when you get there.)

The last half of the pitch is basic big jugs, stems and using full-body climbing.

I really like this climb. It's a sport climb, but feels like a trad route. When you stop and think about it no move feels harder than 5.5. That's as long as you stem up the corner properly. 5.7's on limestone usually aren't this fun or thought provoking. It climbs up and to the right, ending in the right side of the roof.

"Remember, concentrate on the moment. Feel, don't think. Trust your instincts."-Qui-Gon Jinn from The Phantom Menace.

You may feel like leading parts of this climb on cams and nuts. I wouldn't. The start has a corner that would vibrate whenever I struck my hammer to it. The rock to the left was solid, but the corner to the right sounded hollow. At the crux near the 5th or 6th bolt, you pull a roof. Normally I would put the bolt right above the roof for a nice clean fall. The roof sounded hollow but wouldn't budge with a pry bar. That doesn't mean it wouldn't come off in a fall with a cam placed behind it. After placing said bolt I whipped on it a few times to make sure the fall was safe.

Dude...these little magical bugs control everything in the galaxy?! Creepy!

Right side of the Tatooine Wall, just right of Jawa Jam. Start in a trough feature and head up to a bulge. To clip bolt #2 move right a bit further and find a nice clip stance.

Pitch 1 is ok/fun but the really nice stuff is pitch 2! Begin 2 with a steep face left of the belay. After clipping bolt one enjoy a tricky section to a great flake topped by a cruxy bulge. The key hold is hard to see from below so you have to feel around some.

Continue through some fantastic rock and holds to a multi-tiered roof with really nice big holds. Mantle onto a great ledge. Great fun through the finish.

I should add that this was John's first FA effort and he did a great job.

Millennium Falcon climbs the face to the right of the arch. Extremely technical on beautiful rock. The first crux comes quickly at the 2nd bolt a bulge with no feet. The after two more bolts another even more difficult crux. Just remember: You're a dancer not a climber through this section. Finally, more fun movement to a balancey move near the anchors.

This route is so fun that once you send it, the force will be with you, always.

It climbs a stunning face just left of the big left-facing corner and is in between the orange and blue streaks. Pull up to a ledge and clip a bolt, from there it's typically a couple of hard moves to a medium jug. It does this sort of movement throughout the route and will be an ultimate test in your sequence finding abilities.

The rock is perfect just like its neighbors and the climb ends below a huge roof. Stay tuned there will be a second pitch to this one, but hasn't been finished with bolting and cleaning.

As you're climbing it, if you can't decide to go left or right, just remember to let go and use the force.

Bolted this line almost a year ago and never got back to it.

Great fun through the upper roofs on the right side of the wall. Start on a moderate, slabby first pitch (5.8) to a stance with anchor. Then move up and right (very close to Jawa Jam and head over the right side of the multiple roofs. Some jugs, some smaller holds; but the jugs get really good the higher you go.

After turning the final roof, it is possible to skip right into Jawa's corner but stay left for a thrilling exposed finish on a fun prow.

70m rope required.

A long, moderate, bolted line whose character changes several times as the route ascends through varying limestone bands. Fun, occasionally tricky movement with an intimidating-looking section through the right edge of a double-roof area.

Start by climbing to the left of a short, semi-detached "pillar". Follow the initially-rightward-trending bolt line through steep, rough limestone on small edges to a ledge. From the ledge ascend along the right of a groove to the base of a somewhat overhanging section to the right of a large roof system.

Surmount the steepness and follow the natural weakness to the left and upward to the chains.

The climbing on this one is way out there in exposure. You can do this one in two pitches or one long pitch that's definitely a lot more pumpy. Start about twenty feet to the right of Phantom Menace. It's just to the right of a small pine.

Pitch One is a killer combo of small flake-edges and pockets. A neat crux for three bolts and then plain ole' jug cruising.

Pitch Two. Climb the arete using holds on both sides. Climb past a cool monkey bar to a small ledge with scooped out holds. In the ceiling above is a killer two-finger pocket, the rest is up to you.

You barely reach the ground with one 70-meter rope.

Just plain fun! This starts and climbs a very small edge/corner to a wonderful face on mostly square-cut holds. Just a thought, "Traveling through hyperspace ain't like dusting crops." A really good route to warm-up on on this section of the Galaxy.

Grab a big jug and mount a ledge getting to a series of cool finger pockets. From there it's a bewildering series of strangely shaped holds up to the roof.

Clip a longer quickdraw above the roof and get burly and pull it.

Enjoy the rest of the ending on beauty stone.

This route starts on the left side of the wall at the base of the huge right-leaning arch. Climb up to the first bolt and start climbing the underside of the huge arch. Around the 3rd bolt is a tricky little crux getting over a bulge from here on the arch gets a little more narrow and you can pinch it as you make upward progress. After a few more bolts the arch is a traverse to the right more than upward progression. Clip one of the anchors on Millennium Falcon and keep going right past a bolt and then clip one of the anchors on Hyperspace. Again keep going right and up until you end underneath the huge roof on the anchors of The Force. It's only about 75 feet down so you should have some rope left on a 60-meter.

You'll probably only fall on this route if you slip or can't control the barndoor effect. Quite a unique feature! You can see it all the way from the parking lot, so you can point it out to your family and friends and brag how bad ass it was.

In a location with amazing views and a feeling of great exposure, climb 135 feet through several distinct layers of limestone including several small roofs. Big holds, little holds, and at least one pocket (right where you want it, too). Climb it in one long pitch, or split it up into two pitches.

Start on a small, ugly pedestal and climb through some rough, gray limestone. At a broken ledge the rock changes to brown and gets a bit smoother. Climb up through a short, smooth dihedral onto a sloping ledge with chain anchors. Belay here, or continue up if climbing the line as a single pitch.

Head up and left through a lighter-colored, harder layer of rock that looks almost like marble in places. Arrive at a light gray layer with small holds and work your way through the intimidating, slightly overhanging terrain and over the first small roof.

Continue up a short section of darker gray, lower-angled rock, pull two more roofs on large holds, and arrive at the chains.

Lower off to the midpoint anchors, pull the rope, thread the rope again, and lower the rest of the way.

Start on the route That's Not A Lightsaber but at the penultimate bolt keeping going straight up for ten more bolts where you will pull a roof and join the last three bolts of Leia's Leash.

After the first 8 bolts the climb steepens and you get to do a killer hand traverse on huge jugs then into a smaller hold crux up to some wild pinches on strangely shaped triangular holds.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Tatooine