Just right of shallow book climb route using steaming & face climbing techniques.

Big Plans

Claim To Fame

The Original Crackerjack

Jack & Jill Go Bolting

Frequent Flyer

Mental Block Party

Private Battle

Jackson Five Ten

Jumbo Jack

Step Right Up

"Ida-Know"

Basic Reality

Walking the Plank

Row Your Boat

Case of the Stubborns

Totally Jacked

Battle of the Bulge

Carmel Coated Fun

Jill and Drill

Jack be Quick

Jack's Back

Sinker

Milk Money

Charlie Don't Send

Suicide King

Jack and the Beanstalk

Crack 'em Up

"Ida-who"

Jack Off Chimney

Two Bit Fantasy

Ground Zero

Jack Frost

Huecos Rancheros

Back to Basics

Virtuous Reality

Jack Pot

Jacks in Hole

Betty Cracker

Jack Jumped

Jacks Crown

Jack Splat

Jack of all Trades

Jackin For Change

Hijacked

Jack be Nimble

Best Seller

Every Things It's Cracked Up To Be

Enemy Wind

You Don't Know Jack $%^

Firedance

Total Lack of Jack

Jack Off

Drastic Plastic

Snap, Crack, or Pop

Crosstown Traffic

Six Shooter

Cracked Open

Unknown

Saucy Jack

The formation at this area forms a shallow book type feature.  On your right you will find Big Plans 10a and on your left is Enemy Wind.   

  The route looks innocent enough but is a bit longer and is sustained in steepness.  The guidebook warns you to "hold your breath and run for the anchors".  Translation...you'll might be gassed but keep going! 

This is a really nice route that goes up on nice big moves to an overhang finish. The guidebook originally rated it 10d and then upgraded it to 11a. If you move right at the top, rather than going straight up the bulge, you may think this is the easiest 11a on the planet.

Start to the left of the first bolt. Cruxy thin climbing leads past the first bolt. From there, the holds get a bit better but the pump mounts as you edge up the slightly off-vertical face past many fair holds. Hang in there! A classic for the area.

Awesome route that is continuous good movement with a funky hold/thumb undercling crux up high.  One of my favorite routes at Cracker Jack Cliffs, Must Do!!

Bouldery roof start to easy climbing above. Think...Body tension going over the roof (crux)!

Just left of the crack (Betty Cracker 5.9) this route starts easily enough but soon after the moves and holds get thin.   

  Vertical route with crimpy holds on that super grippy dark grey rock.  It's nice. 

Thin, hard start down low using holds well to the right of the first bolt gets you to some bigger holds and then into a mini-corner for some more interesting moves to a big ledge of poor rock quality for the anchors.

Great route following a crack through some loose apearing rock. Great warm up and also one of the better 5.10s at Jacks canyon!

Fun climbing, a nice moderate. This is the first route right of the obvious corner and route # 57 in the guidebook. Kinda high first bolt but its very easy to get to. Just get past the second bolt the route eases, 

Crimpy start to easier climbing above 2nd bolt

CRAZY, unique route. Rope up at the base and head through some less than vertical moves to an offwidthish move getting under the roof. Walk the plank to your left, clipping at your knees as you go. After finishing the plank, fire up through the crux on THIN and reachy moves with crap for feet.

Either yard on awkward pockets or jump to pass the starting bulge, then continue up the thin face on sharp holds to more forgiving moves at the very top. Reachy in spots, with some tricky moves.

Great climbing through pumpy, overhung rock. Watch the right handed gaston sidepull after the second bolt (crux)! Great lead, and as with all Jacks climbs, well protected.

Short boulder problem involving shallow pockets and very limited feet to pull the bulge, then a much easier jaunt to clip the anchors.

Great sidepull, delicate ballancy moves going through the crux with bomber hidden jugs over the roof to pull yourself to glory!

Starting on a semi-sloped belay area the route travels up and right.  The final moves skirt a large roof at the top before reaching the anchor.

Hard, reachy start which is ok once you figure it out. Beta given in comments :)

Fun route with pockets and side pulls to the top.

Left most route starting just right of a debris pile. Climb is slightly crowded by a tree that threatens to impale a falling climber if they should fall from the final hard move. A shoe can be carried up and used as an unusual bit of protection, as it is easy enough to slip the shoe on the offending spike at the good rest just before the last moves.

Follow route crossing a grungy roof up top.  Originally this route was dirty and loose but has cleaned up in the last 10 years.  Large platform area to clip chain anchors.   

The left-most route on the Firedance/Enemy Wind wall.

Book rates this at 5.11a, though I think it goes a little easier than that so I down graded it here. Stellar route though, with great holds goint up through the overhung arete.

Crux half way up. Not very hard if you know how to finger jam.

A decent route that climbs the left side of the wall.

Easy chimney that can be top roped using the anchors for Jack Off

This is the farthest left of the three routes that start by climbing thru very featured, pocketed rock until about 20'. Though this one may not be as consistent as it's more classic neighbors to the right, it is still well worth doing.

Be warned: the handholds are sharp on this one.

Start on the good hold and crank through a V6 consisting of four moves on small pockets, left, right, bump right, deadpoint left.  Use feet that set you up for the deadpoint left instead of the big foot holds. Clip the second bolt then have somebody send up some huevos rancheros so you can eat while you climb 5.10 to the anchors.

Good moderate route but definitely solid 5.9 (kinda rare for Jacks Canyon I know!).  One crux move to safely clip the second bolt and another awaits higher up.  Very cool movement and I do recommend this route, just don't do it first thing in the morning like we did!!

Hard start on crimpers!  You may want to stick clip the first bolt.   Fun climb.  I didn't really find an obvious crux; the route is fairly sustained.

Pretty fun route that is well protected and moderate movement over stone.  Good fun pockets and jugs lead to the fixed anchors.  Fun moves but would be a better route if it were only longer.

Fun overhung route climbing great pockets and edges.

This route is great. A true 5.11a in my opinion (if you have been to jacks, you would know what I mean here.) Nice pocketed climbing over three different roofs to the chain anchor!

Bouldery start - guide book indicates using a clip stick for the first bolt (although unnecessary). Clipping and moving past the first bolt is likely the crux.  This route provides fun sustained climbing.   

  Look for very positive large flake (well chalked) just above the 2nd bolt.  If you get any part of this you're golden!! 

  Climb steep route over several bulges using small pockets.  Sounds like fun eh?

Low angle slab through two small buldges to finish off with large holds.

Bottom section cruxy with lunge from bad left sidepull. Then awkwardness getting your feet up on the ledge. Get ready for the official crux which requires you reach high to stab a small pocket and try to clip a 3rd bolt with lack of any good feet (I skipped this bolt!)  Then crank on to better holds and a 5.11 finish. Phew.

Just left of jack be quick. Starts on face then through roof to anchors. Over the roof there are 2 ways, either big powerful moves left or small powerful moves right. Then a good crimpy section to finish. Certainly worth doing

Very nice route that mixes some crack moves with face cranking on big holds. One of the better routes in the Canyon.

Another line with some bolted crack. Crux at the top if you stay on route.

The crux is about halfway up.  I required a blind cross through, but other people just reach through.  Either way, it's a high quality route.

Good route that is actually solid at the grade (Jack's Canyon??!!) with two separate crux's, one low and one high with great movement in between.  Very fun and could be pretty moderate redpoint but would be harder onsight as some holds are hidden!!

GREAT route for the grade!!  Follow 4 bolts up arete/edge of cliff to fixed anchors.  Steep climbing down low for the grade but jugs will save the day!  Very good route, don't miss!

Climb up to a right facing seam which leads to an  improbable looking roof. A fun, bouldery sequence gets you over the roof to a tricky finish. I was pleasently surprised with this climb!

A great route with fun movement that diagnals left up the wall.

Pull on some hard edges and pockets past the first bolt, then continue up easier arete to a rest under a roof. Pull the technical moves over the roof and continue up a groove to the anchors.

Crux at the roof,short and crimpy pockets over the roof than done. Not a stellar route but worth doing if your in the area.

Some loose rock and a seemingly runout third bolt make for a less than awesome time.

Start next to or on top of a small talus pile.  Follow up an arete that has easy climbing down low to more difficult moves up top.  The climb begins to trend left after the second bolt.  You'll encounter slopers, jugs, underclings, a few crimps, and a crack move or two to get up SJ. Very fun climb to jump on, especially if the Sinker corner is busy.

Most of the routes are south facing. To the far left (east) end, one can find morning shade. A number of routes at all levels.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Cracker Jack Cliffs