A deceptively overhanging (maybe 30 degrees beyond vertical at its steepest) hand and fistcrack, it's hard to really appreciate the steepness of this one without either climbing it or viewing it in profile, from just north of the waterpump parking area.

Start in a walled in alcove (no need for a belayer anchor here) and climb up an easy (~5.8) left facing corner for about 30' to where the angle steepens.  If your feet are getting cold, go right onto Tide Country (10b).  Otherwise, place a high piece with a long runner and step left to a perch at the base of Interceptor.  The first move is cruxy -- a disorienting transition from much less than vertical to much more -- and involves a finger jam (small pro: wires, blue alien), but after that it's all hands and fists with the crack widening as the angle decreases.  After about 30', the crack pulls onto a slab and is followed to a belay at a ledge below a large boulder and the rap anchor.

Interceptor

The Black Hand

Stolen Thunder

Tide Country

Route 66

Savage Attack!

The crux comes in the first 10 feet. It is probably v4 and the protection is dicey. Problem is, you climb up onto a ledge, and then step over a void onto to the wall to begin the hard and insecure tugging. If you were to fall at the crux (about 6 feet off the ledge)...lets just assume you'd be wrecked. You can however fiddle in a blind nut and test it's efficacy down lower off the belay ledge. After the successful execution of the boulder problem, run it out for a few 5.11ish moves above the gear, and then the remainder of the route offers perfect protection and is probably 10a. Unfortunately this route is infrequently repeated, scaley/dirty, and climbing is not nearly as beautiful the routes colorful appearance. It is also a handbag at 12c (the grade Bingham's guide suggests). Legend has it that the resident hardman of the days of yore...Stan Caldwell... was saving this route for a pure ground-up ascent when someone came along and "stole his thunder: by first toproping the line.

Short handcrack with a thin hands crux gaining the ledge. This is a great warmup for Interceptor, and it's also an awesome way of getting the belay directly underneath the start of Interceptor.

A good route with good position and great jams. This is one that is somewhat difficult without being insecure.

Climb up and into a "slot" at the base of the corner and you suddenly find yourself in a phonebooth-sized shaft, climbing up an easy initial 20 feet.  Get some protection and jams and pull into the crack and corner.  CLimb up to the bulge, set gear, and pull the fun crux. Roll onto the top.

To descend, head up and N.E. to a set of anchors above Two Bits/Fred Rasmussen and rap on a 60M or 70M rope

A nice adventure route at a forgiving grade,

Route 66

is a quality line that ascends solid rock using jams, finger locks, stemming, and face climbing.

Climb an open dihedral for about 35 feet to a grunting finish at a resting ledge. Traverse left on this ledge and gain a upward, right leaning hand crack. Climb this crack to another resting ledge (mind your rope drag). From this point, move right on the ledge to a heavily featured face. Climb this unprotected for 15 feet to a good stance. Build an anchor on top.

Descend via a walk towards the east and rap off of the

Two Bits

anchor. If that anchor is busy you can also walk over and rap

Stretch Marks

or take on a "heady" scramble to down-climb on the northwest end.

The crux is bolt protected and found right off the ledge where the route departs the Lost Pioneers (10a) corner at 3/4's height. This route is worth doing on a hot day, but the grainy lichen covered rock lowers its quality rating.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Upper Broadloaves - North