This route is at the Eastern-most ramp on the South face. Coming from the East face, it'll be immediately after turning onto the South face. It is easily identifiable due to a unique 6 inch water groove that may or may not be wet.

The route goes up this ramp / water groove all the way to the ledge below the summit block.

The first 30 feet of the first pitch provide the crux. The rock is VERY polished, and there is no protection to be had. Continue up the ramp until you reach a large ledge/meadow where you can belay.

The second pitch moves left onto the ridge of the ramp and continues up as you move under a huge chockstone. After this you can set up the belay in another meadow.

The third pitch continues up the ramp and tackles a smooth unprotected section of friction climbing (second crux). From there, 200 feet up the ramp will get you to the ledge below the summit block. Avoid the temptation to go right at the large dihedral after the second crux.

To escape the summit, rappel 50 feet to the North from the ledge below the summit block. It is recommended to bring some 10 feet of webbing in case you have to set up the rappel around the huge rock horn.

South Ramp

East Face/Hippo Head

North Face

South Ridge

South Ramp Left Variation

This would be a three star climb if the lower part of the face was less broken and cleaner. The last 45 feet before the summit block climb one of the best hand/fist cracks in the Flatirons as qualified aptly by George Bell

Begin at the saddle (highest point) on the East face. Work your way up past trees and a series of ledges and bulges to the base of the crack. Belay at a tree

Climb the crack past a small overhang and onto the ledge at the base of the summit block. Scramble one at a time for 30 feet to the top

Descent - rappel North some 50 overhanging feet from slings around a horn. I suggest you bring a 10 foot sling for this. Word has it there is a downclimb on the West side, but it is reputed to be scary.

This route is just right (as seen from below) of the rappel. Its first 25 feet ascend a broken, nearly overhanging section below a crack. After that, you move into a fist wide crack that quickly expands into offwidth.

The crux comes some 40 feet off the ground and involves climbing and mostly exiting some 10 feet of offwidth onto the ledge just below the summit blocks.

Descent - rappel North from slings. Bring a 10 foot sling.

This route climbs the long 650' south ridge of the Fist.  Climb a vague crack around the right side of the ridge to get started, but you can then climb quite close to the arete itself (this section of the route is somewhat runout).  When you reach a difficult headwall, move right (north) on a ledge system, aiming for a hand crack which breaches the middle of the upper east face.

You can belay at a tree at the base of the crack.  Climb this fun, easy hand crack to the summit area.  The summit block itself is easily climbed on the east side.

To escape the summit, rappel 50 feet to the North from the ledge below the summit block. It is recommended to bring some 10 feet of webbing in case you have to set up the rappel around the huge rock horn.

This is a fun, chimney groove climb on fairly clean rock. It is best done as a solo due to the lack of adequate belays, although I wasn't really looking super hard.

A dirty start leads to sustained 5.6 groove/squeeze chimney climbing and then a good stance. The slab traverse over to an easy step up to gain the

South Ramp

is another 5.6 crux with no protection options, and a fall would send you careening off the west side. The upper ridge is cruiser. Then descend the west face rap route which is arguably the crux of this whole feature.

It is a fun extension to Angel's Way if you like this sort of thing.

Description

Protection

Routes in The Fist or Hippo Head