Full body physicality. Looking at hot tuna from left to right, this problem starts deep in the seam beneath the second hueco. There is an amazingly positive and bomber water polished full-pad crimp to start right hand on, with the left matched on a smaller crimp to the left. Feet are technical. Pull off of your butt on the crimp and start shooting out, working toward the hueco (toe hooks?). Once in the hueco, the crux is behind you, and you can get a little rest before exiting the roof via a big flat hold, 2finger halfpad pocket/crimp out left, another wonderful water-polished crimp up high, and a glorious victory jug out left to finish! Keep your head together as you traverse out left. An excellent line in a classic location just begging to be done.

Cold Sushi

The O-Zone

Hot Tuna

Flying Fish

Eat or be Eaten

Cold Turkey

A LONG traverse under a roof on slopey sandstone. Start is easy-ish moves that get you pumped before some hard slopers, then some power moves around a corner, then some LONG stretches or small crimps to a crux final move after 35ft of "roof" traverse - Good times.

Climb up to the right of Eat Or Be Eaten up the face, to the right end of the roof, make a very doubtful move past this and up the sparse slab to the top.

From a boulder below the Hot Tuna roof jump to a big hold. Climb up and over the second overlap to the top

A great technical challenge with lots of body english moves.

Up to, then step left around and out of the dihedral and onto the face, diagonal up and right along the edge using any hold available, crux is near the top.

Hot Tuna and Cold Turkey - ok, I get it.

A fun hard route on less than perfect rock, hopefully it's still doable. The initial roof can either be climbed directly with a hard mantle (preferable) or the face can be gained by traversing in from the right. Up the face do the crux through overhanging flakey rock, then tenuous but easier moves to the top of the buttress.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Hot Tuna Buttress