Start up easier climbing to reach a ledge then fire through a boulder problem and run to the chains before the pump catches up.

Misfire

Tourist Trap

Us and Them

Poopie Head

Hmmm

Windy Corner

Centerfire

Bare Metal Teen

Sex Show

Reanimator

Steelworker

Situational Awareness

Family Values

Bandolier

Wadcutter AKA "Gumby Killer"

Del Boy

Recoil

Cordelia

Pocket Pussy

Receiver

Seek The Truth

Rest Assured

Dream of a Bee

Stool Sample

Ode to Poopie Head

Sport for Brains

Racer X

Big Money Grip

Climb steep jugs for a way until holds thin and you execute a boulder problem on thin holds. Continue up on crimpy climbing with a couple of good rests to break things up. Eventually the holds end in a blank section of wall, JUMP for the next tongue that juts from the wall. Make a hard rock over onto this to get stood up and continue on to the anchor. Sweet climbing on iron rock edges.

This fun and engaging route climbs up through a funky start to reach the obvious arete above. Climb this to the anchors.

A stick clip is advised as the start is not a give-away.

Fun, smooth moves on great, ergonomic holds on slightly overhanging rock to a thin and sloper hold crux define this route.

Flow up cool holds through nice clipping holds to the third bolt. Nab a rest and then crank tricky moves off a sloper hold past the fourth bolt. Engaging climbing continues to the sixth bolt. It's a bit of a tough clip so a long draw on the sixth bolt might prove helpful when going for the send. Pull through the "sloper crux" to a big ledge. Rest up and climb to the diving board feature to clip the anchor.

Taller climbers will likely find this easy for the grade. For that matter, those used to the overhanging jug haul 12a's at the Red might find this easy for the grade too. It's more technical than steep.

5.10 can be very steep at the Red River Gorge. Poopie Head is a fine example. If only it were longer!

Climb up small but good pockets to the high first bolt. A clip stick could prove useful here. Continue up to the second bolt and to a small roof. Pull up over it and hang on to bigger holds on steepening terrain to the top.

This route ascends the dihedral left of Cordelia. You climb the finger crack up. The first 20 ft has a lot of face holds from Dream of a Bee. The crux is a small overhang on to a large legde. After another ten feet you reach a nice ledge and chain anchors

This awesome splitter is located on the left side of the wall (left of 5.10 wall). If this climb doesn't make you drool, you should sell all your trad gear immediately and become a bolt clipper. Start by climbing thin-hands dihedral to roof. plug some gear and pull roof to overhanging crack. Make long reaches to good jams that vary in size from thin hands to fists. Pumpy, fun route not to be missed if you are in the area.

Centerfire is a superb route.  Proud line up the tall middle of the 11 wall, between Bandolier 11a and Reciever 11b, both of which are 5 star routes also.  Very long and pumpy, no great rests unless you go off route, and a couple bouldery cruxes.

Stellar route in the middle of the 12 wall.  Between Steelworker and Big Money Grip.  Takes an impressive overhanging line through jugs to a marginal rest, maybe catch a bad kneebar before charging into the crux section then into a steep pumping jug/edge haul to the anchors.

Decent route-- start up near the arete and trend left on heavily pocketed face.  Moves over a slight bulge to a more slabby section.  A bit run out at the top.  From below it looks like it should be easier than it is.

Photo below, the climber is on Pocket Pussy and you can see the draws on Seek the Truth, the bolt inbetween is the first bolt on Sex Show.

Amazing pockets define this area.  Jay is low on Pocket Pussy in this shot, October '08.  Draws are hanging on Seek The Truth 11d, and the bolt line inbetween is Sex Show 11d, an ok line also.

A fun route with a burly start. A stick clip is a good idea.

Climb up through a burly start on good holds to a traverse out to the wall above. Once on the wall, take the left hand line to the anchors above.

Steep bouldery start yeilds to continuous climbing on OK holds, nothing too great. Rest as best you can because a difficult crux on pockets awaits at 2/3's or 3/4 height. From the crux more pumpy climbing leads up to the anchor. A stellar outting.

Stick clip and jug up to the first bolt (A0). From there, pull into the steep on good holds until reaching the left-leaning flake feature. Rest up and punch through the final crux headwall to a much-needed jug flake at the chains.

This would be a quality route if it received more traffic, but is quite sandy and still a little crispy in its current state.

On the left side of the 5.10 wall, climb an obvious crack/corner to a small roof.  Pull it and angle left and up the face above to an obvious crux at mid-height, then continue up easier ground to the top.  The start is shared with Rest Assured (5.10a).

A good route on the easier side of the ratings at this cliff. It ascends a slightly steep wall with smaller than average holds for The Red: more edges and flakes than pockets.

A pinchy vertical line with few rests. Straight up the slightly overhanging wall using crimpers and plenty of edging. Climb right of the overhang to finger pockets, then up to the chains.

Steep pocket pulling over or around a couple roofs punctuated by good rests.

Good, steep pocket climbing up to the third bolt and a small roof. Bear down over the roof to lower angle but enjoyable climbing trending left up to the second roof. Skirt the roof by staying left to a great rest before the steep finishing headwall. Hang on tight for two more bolts on steep terrain to the anchors.

Begin left of Receiver and climb through a small dihedral.  Take full advantage of this rest and make a strong push to the anchors on good holds.

Slabby, with all that means. Crux is between the 3rd and 4th bolts

Cool pocketed face to a slight bulge, trending left towards anchors.

Amazing line up the obvious overhanging arete.  Steep jug-haul at it's very best.

On the left side of the 5.10 wall, climb an obvious crack/corner to a small roof.  Pull it and angle right and up the face above.  The start is shared with Family Values (5.10c).

5.8 pocket pulling to the right of Wadcutter.

Overall, the holds on this are worse than poopie head, but the crux on Stool Sample is easier.

Start with small pockets, pull the roof and mantle to clip the anchors.

Start right of Seek the Truth.  This is another great steep route that takes the line through the center of the overhung face. Climb through the pump and enjoy a good rest on a small ledge just before the anchors.

A long line with endless jugs and no excellent rests, this route will make you work even though its hardest move isn't harder than 5.11c.

This route was always a favorite of 5.12 climbers visiting RRG along with the other 5.12s on this section of Torrent.

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Routes in Torrent Falls