Put up by an "injun" and an engineer, this route confronts you with puzzle after puzzle. Don't be surprised by a few try-really-hard-for-the-grade moves, as you can find just enough rest between each to keep it together. Rock quality is much better than it looks from the ground. Stick clip recommended, if not solid at the grade here!

[Redacted]

Name in the Guidebook

Chimney Sweep

Integrity

Old Fart

Elevator Shoes

Snoop'n and Poop'n

A Break from the Heat

Nine to Five

Pocket Pool

Da Bulge

Tight Squeeze

Under the Eye of the Vulture

White Line Fever

Hot Shit

Stone Dagger

Competitive Edge

Brickyard

Easy for Now

Shitbox

Murphy's Law

To Good to be True

Forged Identity

Thin and Crispy

Really good route that starts left of Stone Dagger on some tufa features that soon end to a crux with thin crimps and some harder moves to the roof. Pull the roof and enjoy jugs to the anchor.

Starts 5 feet left of two stacked boulders

Fun King's Bluff route.  The first clip is a little runout (consider stick clip, but definately not necessary).

Wide, shallow dihedral right of rotten flake

Start with some moderate crimps, aiming for the obvious crack. Jam the crack and follow it up. Continue up until, holds are good the entire way. Route gets a little run out in between the 3rd and 4th hold, but it's fairly easy climbing so nothing to worry about. 

  The Dixie Cragger's Atlas still has this listed as a mixed route, however it looks like someone added two more bolts and it is now one of the best moderate sport climbs at King's Bluff.

Boulder through a stiff start, up a blocky bulge, to a mantle move at a ledge. From there, find the cryptic crimps that will get you to the chains. Sandstone-esque rock sections and movement.

Fun technical climbing up a shallow corner to a small roof. Easy after the roof.

A sequential, bouldery start leads to a rest. Fun and interesting moves through the middle, to a puzzling bulge below the anchors. Originally a mixed route with two less bolts.

Climb the left side of a white streak to crescent shaped layback. Keep moving to just below a bulge. Muscle the bulge to ring anchors.

Mellow climbing to first bolt. Then, an interesting harder section, which eases up before a reachy anchor clip. Beware of hollow rock above anchor!

The Dixie Cragger's Atlas calls this a "mixed" route. I guess for King's Bluff it is a little run out... maybe ten or twelve feet if I remember correctly. 

  It's long for King's - a fun climb.

Starts on a small boulder. High first bolt, consider stick clipping. Easy climbing to first bolt. Hardest part was around 2nd and 3rd anchors. After that follow the bolts for thin handholds and solid feet to the chains.

This route may clean up, eventually... but for now, don't expect great rock quality. Hell, Todd cleaned so much rock off the upper half on his ascent, Im not even sure there's any rock at all left up there! Its probably a new route now and needs to be renamed and regraded. Anyway, if you do decide to do this death trap, I mean future classic, be careful what you pull on. And for Pete's sake, please wear a helmet (especially while belaying), and dont let anyone hang out under it while you're climbing!!! Ok, disclaimer aside, the roof pull on this thing is actually fun! And it is tall for the area. If nothing else, get on it for the experience! Maybe we'll make "I survived Shitbox" stickers someday...

The harder routes here usually mean that this section of the wall lives up to its name.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Quiet Zone