The left hand starts on a subtle bumpy crimp close to the bottom of the boulder, just left of the left arete; the right hand starts in an interesting gaston mantle kind of position on the knob that's at the bottom center of the boulder. The left foot works well smeared on a round, distinct bump on the adjacent boulder to the left.

 Slap your left hand up to the good, big pinch, then work your right hand out and across the boulder to the good opposing sloper side pull. Work the left hand up the left arete some more and finish it off. 

The Leftist

Paradiddle

The Rightist

Light Doses

Starts the same as The Leftist. Left hand down low on a crimp by the left arete. Right hand on the slopey ball. Bump RH up to the trianglular crimp. Get a good heel toe cam and make a big move out right to a sloping jug. Use some body tension and possibly a knee bar to get your left hand on the starting right hand hold. Swing under the boulder and match the left hand to the sloper/crimp jug. Get some feet and toss up to a small crimp on the right side of the arete. Stand up and grab a left hand side pull in the crack. Top out on sloper jugs. 

The other obvious climb on the boulder, The Rightest starts with both hands matched on the sloper ledge that's low and around the corner from the right arete.  

  Bury a good heal hook and work your way up the right arete. There's an awesome little crimp about 2/3rds of the way up the right arete that is essential in finishing the climb.

Start this problem standing matched with some solid crimp underclings and some good feet on the slab below. The crux of this problem is pulling off the ground and establishing both feet on the wall and moving up to the sloper above. Once on the sloper, move up and left over the bulge and topout on decent holds.

A new boulder (to the party who cleaned it, at least) that's pretty well hidden, but easy to get to.    It features two obvious sloping arete lines; the left line is quite a bit tougher than the right.  

  And something that's definitely worth noting: this is a great place to finish off your session, once your skin can't take anymore sharp holds. The rock is really smooth by Rumney standards.

Description

Location

Routes in Eastern Bulge Boulder