Cool tips/bouldery crux up high, with a different crux down low for potash road.

Chemistry

Treasure Trove Cove

Bad Moki Crack

Hidden Message

Half Pipe

Gumby Gulley

Grama and the Green Suede Shoes

Mississippi High Step

Faith Flake

Devil in Disguise

Mephistopheles

Something Nasty

Welcome to Anexia

Enigma Campground Route

Uncertain

Right Side In

Shoot Up or Shut Up

Dark Horse

Mother Trucker

Bolts to Bumpy Land

Horizontal Mambo

Mini Me

Smoke Filled Rooms

Broken Engagements

Flakes of Wrath Direct

Room With A View (free)

Brown Banana

Pounding the Frog

Ring Pin

Eyes of Falina

90 Paces

Snakes Slab

Midnight Frightening

Fernando

Tempting the Guillotine

A Fistful of Potash

Just Another Pretty Face

Lizard Skills

Seibernetics

30 Seconds Over Potash

Yogini

School Room Slabs

Steel Your Face

Static Cling

Astro Lad

High Over Datura

Baby Blue

Unknown

"Big Corner"

Dr Strange Flake

Another Roadside Distraction

The Two Sides of Purple

She-la the Peeler

East Of Wrath

El Cracko Diablo

Man After Midnight

Bad Moki Roof

Banana Peel

Pedigree Poodles

Seamed like a good idea

Willow Whip

Slab Route

El Face-o Diablo

Nervous in Suburbia

Chaco-late Chunk

Top 40

Wake of the Flood

Light of the World

No Fly Zone

Potash Bong Hit

Puppy Love

Twittin Shinkies

Neopolitan

Eat the Rich

Fist Full of Potash Direct

Summit Chimney

Under the Boardwalk

Big Sky Mud Flaps

Tastes Like Chicken

Best Route Ever

Frogs of a Feather

Blowing Chunks

Skeletonic

Tired of Talus

Potstash

The Good, The Bad, and the Potash

Take A Chance On Me

Seam As It Ever Was

Junk In The Trunk

Pounding The Frog Redirect

Ananab

Rain Catcher

Unemployment Line

Last Tango in Potash

Flakes of Bongo

Little Tufa's

Stego Slab

Visible Panty Line

Sand and Steel

"Oh you can take your time baby, I'm in no hurry....."

Balance-y and harder-than-it-seems climbing leads through the first two bolts to a delicate clip at the 3rd. Powerful moves getting established over the roof bring you to a jug for a rest. Easier climbing leads to the anchors.

Mixed line.

4 bolts of tricky vert climbing between two short crack sections, then 10 feet of easy slab.

Protection::: #2, 4 bolts, #3, #4, bolt, anchors.

Climb a steep start to gain the groove. Cheater stones on the ground may help with getting started if you're shorter. Once gaining the groove work left on balance moves to gain the left facing corner system. Work up the corner and finish on the slab with two bolts and the anchor.

High on Moab describes and Unnamed 5.6 but the line described here is more straight forward, higher quality and easier to protect than the slab start described in the book.

Left facing corner has poor quality rock slightly left of corner for the first 20 feet.

-Start up left facing corner

-Route becomes thin just before the first bolt (1st crux).

-Making last move to the anchors is quite exciting, 2nd crux between pin and anchors.

Great route that is beginning to see more traffic

Shallow gully just left of Snake Slab. Steepens to a short, fun chimney.

Climb the obvious wide crack to the left of Lacto Mangulation. It's lower angle but wide which can make it akward. There are two anchor options if bringing up a second, either traverse to the chain anchors (climbers right) or run it out another fifty feet to a boulder that can be slung (couldn't find anything else).

Mississippi High Step is a tough face route that stays less than vertical the entire way. Most climbers will find the technical cruxes to come right off the ground and then again about half way up the route.

Tradiak strikes again! Easy climbing leads to a pedestal, from which it is wise to place 2 #2 Camalots with a 48' runner. Balance-y climbing heads left onto the "faith flake". Karl's book mentions to girth hitch the flake, but this seems very unlikely unless you have a coat hanger. Mantle up onto the flake and clip the bolt. Technical climbing leads past two fixed pins and a single yellow Alien placement to the anchor. Great climbing on good stone. The meat of this one is interestingly similar to the nearby "Coup D'Etat."

Fun featured slab climbing past a bolt leads into a left-facing corner. Follow the corner until it ends then finish on third class slab to the anchor.

40 feet of fun liebacking ends with 3 bolts of horrendous, insecure stemming. More 5.11 leads to the anchors. There are more pitches above that haven't been done in many many moons.

This is one of the best crack pitches at Wall Street. The crux comes early, with small gear and powerful moves. After the first twenty feet the difficulty eases into really enjoyable fingers and tips climbing.

Tradiak! Crux climbing getting to, and past, the first bolt brings you to a stance and traverse that it would be best not to fall off of. After the second bolt, easier but still thought-provoking climbing leads up and left to the anchor. This route has great face climbing that is classic for the style.

It can be done as two pitches or one. I found it fine to string the pitches together. The first half is an easy slab then it moves into the dihedral with the crux being near the start of the corner. After this a few more tricky moves gain some cruising layback moves to the anchors.

An extension to Smell of Dead Euro-peons. Josh said he was cool with "Uncertain" as the name. It kind of describes the climbing on the pitch.

Bolts lead up and left from that anchor. Classic WS awkward pulls and smears on sandy rock in the opposite direction as you would like.

This is the crack about 15 feet right of "30 seconds over Potash." Start with some hands and short wide pods that take you to an offwidth, which as the name implies, is best climbed "right side in." Near the top some smaller gear can be placed in a seam.  At the thin seam, face climb up and left to rock over the vertical section.

This is actually not that bad of a route and would be better if there were an anchor.  Currently, you could use the anchor by "30 seconds," but that would probably be in the way of the masses. So, it is possible to traverse to the (climber's) right to the obscure "bolted route," about 30 feet right of "30 seconds) and lower down.  At this point, the "Bolted Route" (5.11a) can be TR'd.

This route, with some large cams, would be a good route for those working on their offwidth skills.

This route begins just to the climber's left of reflector post #4 and is on the next major buttress to the right of the Summit Chimneys area.

Climb up and then move left following bolts and placing gear.

Probably the best sport climb at Wall Street.  To the right of 30 Seconds, about 50 yards.  Easily recognizable by the dark varnished high quality rock.  The start is very chalked.  The crux is basically the first few moves off the ground.  After the third bolt it gets easier, but the bolts get a little further.

Very good trad route.  Begins with small finger crack and face moves.  The crack expands to good hand size midway up.  Crux is at the top with strong face moves and lay-back

Hard to believe that this route hasn't been added yet. It's up there with Big Sky Mud Flaps as one of Wall Street's best face/slab climbs. Very cool and varied features. A hard mantle at the first bolt gains you entry into 30 meters of engaging face and slab climbing. Josh Gross tells me Lynn Sanson recently replaced the bolts on this, making an oft-neglected classic accessible again. Thanks Lynn!

Climb the low angle dihedral start of Bad Moki Roof but head right under the big roof along positive holds in the horizontal crack, clipping the fixed draws, rather then up the leftward thin hand crack of BMR. Most of the holds are good but feet are non-existent so some horizontal positioning is required to prevent campusing the route. Really fun. Crux comes right at the end.

Also called the

Fistful Corner

is done entirely on gear, This route is right of "Last Tango In Potash" and can be lead on all gear via crack out right or via a two bolt variation off the ground. The 2 bolt face variation out left.

This is a fun and super varied route! Start off either straight below the crack on big rails (5.10a-ish) or over left in the depression of the ledge (5.10d-ish) and then walk into the crack. Get a couple pieces (#1 Camalot in the corner, #0.75 Camalot a move above in the first pod). Pull on the corner finger crack and get a stemming rest on the ledge. Transfer into the main crack and climb up clipping the bolt right before the crux sequence. Face climb above the bolt either pulling into the bottoming crack (harder) or stemming and face climbing straight up. Get a hand hold higher than the anchors to make the clip, poor rock above limited my anchor placement options.

Aid route located above "top forty" and the far right side of the school room. climb to the top of the school room slabs and continue hard right past a bolt, ending at a bolted belay and the start of the first pitch

Pitch 1- bolt ladder to beaks and thin pins.Steep. Hanging belay (A3?)

Pitch 2- More thin pins and arrows to clean gear and a nice ledge. (A2+)

Pitch 3- 5.10ish ending in an alcove.

Could continue to the rim but I decided to back off as loose rock end up in the middle of the road, and there is a fair amount of it on the last pitch. Use caution.

5.9+ hand jams lead up to thinning double cracks. When the crack runs out, keep climbing the face with no bolts.

The free variation of the aid route of the same name. Interesting climbing zig-zagging back and forth across the seam past four bolts. The seam opens up in small sections to accept supplemental gear. The grade I gave the route is just my best guess, there's a tricky crux move after the second bolt but otherwise the climbing is fairly reasonable after. Expect a veneer of fine silt in sections until perhaps it cleans up with more traffic.

Route is located 15 feet left of Banana Peel. Face climbing past 5 bolts to 3 bolt and chain anchor. Climb just right of the bolt line on better rock. You can make the route a bit harder by climbing left of the last 2 bolts.

Face climb past 2 bolts to anchor consisting of one rap ring and one chain. Best Route Ever crosses the anchor.

short s splitter in the cove left of Flakes of Wrath 500ft.Bouldery start!

Eyes of Falina

climbs the broken face left of

Bad Moki Roof

. Good holds get you off the deck to a precarious sequence of moves. Pull these off, gain a ledge, and clip the first bolt. Slab, edge, and lean left to gain a pin. Continue climbing up through a crack system to a nice rest/ledge. Slab up and right off the ledge towards some fair and most likely sandy edges. Follow the four inch crack for about fifteen feet to the anchors.

Starting off on some mossy rock with an under cling pocket make your way up L of the first bolt. Once established on the climb enjoy a fun dance L and R of the bolted line following the path of least resistance. A good variety of smears and ripples lead to a section of deceiving friction just before the anchors.

Climb up the center of the slab past five fixed anchors to a bolted belay.  It looks thin but the low angle makes it possible.

Start below a giant flake to the right of Schoolroom #1. The crux is right off the ground so you may want a crash pad. Start in thin crimps that don't let up until you hit the flake--awesome moves! Once you reach the flake traverse right and place a #2 camalot or a #3 friend in the pod--then continue right. After placing another #2 Camalot (just as the flake jogs upward) do a huge undercling pullup and move right, clip a bolt (a kneebar may help for clipping) then traverse right to another undercling where you can get handjams (and a #1 Camalot). You may then want to place a 0.5 Camalot where the crack constricts. Traverse farther right where you can get a 0.3 camalot in a pod at your knee, then climb up, clipping a bolt, to the anchors!

Hard opening moves lead to fun face climbing and a show stopper crux at the anchor.

Interesting movement utilizing edges, laybacks, hand jams, and rattly fingerlocks.  Bring a red c4 and a yellow tcu - the placements will be obvious (and necessary).

This route is listed as "unknown" 5.12b in the Moab area guide.  Definitely worth doing! Will clean up with some traffic, there was 0 chalk and a fair amount of sand when I got on it.

This route is just left of a slabby top-roping area on a small buttress that almost goes into the road.  Climb up the slab past bolt and pitons to a short finger crack to a ledge with anchors.  The slab is probably is harder for shorter people.

Just another Pretty Face is a great thin, balancey face climb at the far end of Potash Road.  It is located immediately left of a thin seam called "Chris-Cross," and can be identified by a first bolt 25 feet off the deck.  The line arcs gently to the left and then finally heads up and then back right to the anchors.  Tiny edges and sandy nubbins for the feet, and lots of off balance long reaches make for great fun on this pitch.  The book lists the crux as between bolts 3 and 4, but I found the climbing to be pretty cruxy from bolt 3 right to bolt 6.

Excellent slab climbing up rippled stone.  Pinches, laybacks, fingerlocks; this short route packs a lot of techniques in 55 feet of engaging climbing.

The line starts just left of a left angling seam and finishes in a left facing corner.

Climb up and left onto a small ledge past two drilled angles and into a right-leaning dihedral.  The dihedral is more of a groove than a crack and difficult to protect without taking away all holds; the slab to the right is 10- and offers little but nubbins for feet to help.  Climb up to even with the anchors and then traverse a flake-top to the excellent anchors (placed for both this climb and the slab TR of Seibernetics Direct, 10-).  Rap or lower 80'.

This is one of the classic must-do moderate routes.  It almost always has someone on it or in line (sorta like Supercrack at IC).  And it's definitely worth the wait.  Expect a sustained climb with three definite parts, and good rests in between each - it's harder than it looks, and the cruxes are pumpy.

Reach the climb about 350 feet (less than .1 mile) past a large break in the otherwise solid wall of Wall Street.  If you pass a long (several hundred feet) section of lower angled slabs, you've gone too far.

Lieback and jam a left-facing corner (with a couple of face features for variety) at the right end of a 3-car turnout for 80' to good anchors on the facing wall.  Rap the route.

A bolted friction route on a narrow column of rock.

School Room Slabs offers four TR climbs on Potash Road with an easy 4th class scramble to the anchors.  Most of the routes are in the 5.4-5.5 range, although a couple of variations at the start of some of these climbs can provide a little more of a challenge while still on TR.

If you have a small trad rack, you can also lead a short crack to the left of the tree where the 4th class scramble to the top is located.  This is a super fun 5.5/5.6 lead (60ft) with bolted anchors and you can easily TR this after you lead it.  This was our group's favorite route.

This area is highly recommended for kids, newbies and large groups of gym climbers who happen to be in the area for the weekend and want to get in a few hours climbing.  We managed to get a group of 8 on three routes each in under 3 hours.

A classic slab marked by thin cruxes and tip-toe foot work. This climb will require balance and a little confidence. Fairly well protected, this tenuous route has only one definite crux, but plenty of "heads-up climbing" everywhere else. A wandering line with good movement and mass appeal.  A great lead and a really nice climb!

While the grade has been debated, 5.10a/b (E1 5b for our visitors) seems to be the benchmark. Your size, reach, and skill will become a prime factor when coming to your own consensus; expect fluctuations.

Climb the thin crack system and pull up under the roof utilizing some side pulls (crux).  Pull the roof (2nd crux) and continue to anchors on the right wall.

The moves are aesthetic, and you can find some great rests, a great route.

Although it certainly won't compare to longer classic routes, it is definitely one of the best on wall street.

Astro Lad is the proud thin crack a few routes to the right of Bad Moki Roof.  It is obvious when you see 2 bolts halfway up and a bunch of chalk on the other side of the right facing dihedral.  Start with finger locks and liebacking to a good rest and clip 2 bolts to the jamming crux.  Sustanined climbing makes this one a battle to the end.

This is about as good as the rock gets at Wallstreet, with very cool sculpted holds and engaging, thought-provoking movement throughout. Care should be taken by both belayer and climber getting to the 2nd pin, as a fall will put you very close to the ground.

This route is located approximately 100' left of '30 Seconds Over Potash' on Wall Street.  The route climbs a finger crack in a narrow, left facing dihedral.  Eight feet below the chains the dihedral vanishes, leaving a splitter finger crack.

This is a great route for the aspiring 5.11 crack climber.  There are numerous face holds and good stemming rests.  Excellent.

Less than vertical face climbing for the first 3 bolts at the bottom. Then a crack with one or two hand jams to a ledge. Then an easy climb/scramble on a short slab to the anchor.

This route climbs a large, continuous right facing corner.  There is a bolt about 20 feet up and another about 60 feet up.  You may find a few tricky placements before the first bolt.  This is a fun route that requires stemming, jamming, finger locks and a variety of techniques.  It is fairly sustained with a few distinct cruxes.  The rock quality is better than it looks and should clean up with more traffic but is still quite sandy in spots.

Described in the Falcon "Best climbs Moab" as "tricky" and a 5 bolt sport route going at 5.10.

It has 5 bolts, the first about 15 or more feet off the ground clipped from an insecure stance. It is tricky at the crux. I would take a few small cams for the pods en route to the first bolt of this sport climb. I whined, sniveled etc more than I think I ever have on a mid grade 5.10. For comparison, I found all the other 10s in this routes vicinity to be significantly easier. Your mileage may vary.

Still, fun, sequency moves on typical sand covered crimps to a creaky flake.

A.R.D. is the right facing corner just left of Astro Lad.  This route begins with some funky moves and then veers left to avoid a short offwidth crack.  A large cam, anything from a #4 friend to a #5 camalot, protects the start.  The rock on the first half of the route is definitely a little suspect, but the moves are interesting.  At mid-height, cut back right to gain the beautiful finger crack.  I'd recommend placing a good piece (#2.5 Fr.?) with a long sling before going right.  Load up the thin crack with pro and launch into a fun layback with solid finger locks.  A  couple small footholds provide relief for placing gear during the layback.

The crux is giving up the layback and hoisting onto the sloping ledge just before the anchor.  The last half of the route is excellent!

A continuation of Pinhead, start on that route but about 8 feet below its anchor, bust right and up to an obvious OW pod guarding access to the right-facing corner above.  This is the first of three OW sections you will encounter on your way to the anchor.  You will want a #5 Camalot and bump it up this section with you.

Grunt up to the next section of wideness, #4 works here.  As the crack disappears you will find a nice new bolt waiting for you to clip.  Stem, smear and grovel up to the last short pod below the anchor.  Have a #2 Camalot ready, plug it in and make a move or two to the anchor.

When I led this I used everything from a 00 C3 (purple) to the #5 Camalot (purple) hence the route name.  It is still fresh, so be mindful of what you grab onto.

A short, boulder-problem start leads to a long slab with thin edges and friction moves. There is a low crux off the ground and another crux about halfway up. And let's be honest, it's probably not good to top rope this route or the Slab Route to the left. The sandstone is soft and you can see many rope grooves here already. Rapping, instead of lowering, would cause the least impact on the rock.

Start up "Flakes Of Wrath" move right at first horizontal then up short splitter. Climb straight up to anchor, great face climbing with good gear!

Haven't led this (so sad).  20' left of the tree on the black wall is a noticable V-slotted finger crack below a block.  Fingers to good jams then move around the block.  Rating is 10a and I think it's that all the way (look...a poet and I didn't even know it).

Moderate mixed climbing leads to thin crux on the upper portion of the arete.

This route is two routes right of Flakes of Wrath.  It goes up the thin, slabby right facing corner, out the roof, and up a sandy slab/crack.  It felt harder than 5.9, since I got really pumped placing gear in the roof, but none of the moves are that hard, it's just sustained.  Don't lower and try not to toprope since there are really deep rope grooves in the roof.  One groove just above the lip is deep enough to place pro in.

Nice face climb on the rightside of School Room #2. It is fairly sustained and has tricky moves at the start, above 1st pin and getting to the anchor.  Climb trends to the right and is well protected with 6 fixed pieces.

This climb was not in Eric B's "Wall Street to the SR Swell" guide book so if anyone has the real name, grade and 1st ascent info, please provide it.

This route was not unpleasant, it just was not worth much. I did it because I was there, I was waiting, and I was antsy. It's a better boulder than it is a route. It is also easier than the book would imply, & reasonably solid and secure.  IF it were 90' long, there would be a line for it.

There is not and apparently never was a hidden anchor up top as indicated by the book. Again, just solo this up or down in combination with Manicured Lawns (5.9) or Dunn-Copeland (5.7).

All of these routes lie on the arch-shaped flake which lies against the main wall between Nervous In Suburbia and Lucy In the Sky with Potash. Pedigree Poodles ascends the right hand side of the flake to the top, perhaps for 20+ feet. The moves are not hard and the rock is pretty good. It will take good small cams if you like. You can place cams back behind the flake up top, but the cables will get tweaked hard if someone takes a fall on them or hangs. I lead this route on a few pieces of gear in a solid arc over to the top of Dunn Copland and then down the sloping ramp of that route. I reached the ground, and handed the lead line to my second, who back lead it in reverse- pulling the gear out by reversing my direction. This turns the 2 routes into a mellow rising and falling traverse of the system covering ~50-60 feet of climbing.

To reiterate, this climb was far easier than the given grade of 5.9+, and has no anchor, nor has it apparently ever had one. It is a safe boulder though- it's just too short to be a good route.

Climb the low angle water runnel in a left facing corner to a bolted anchor with chains.

Right of High Desert Drifter. Good moderate,though still soft Navajo rock, will clean up to be a nice moderate.

This well bolted slab route is located just to the right of the bush below

Puppy Love

.  Pull a 5.7 move off the deck and clip the first of many closely spaced bolts.  A good intro to soft sandstone fiction climbing.  Rap from a two bolt anchor at 90ft to prevent deep rope groves from top ropping.

This route used to have only 2 bolts on it.

Aesthetic and clean,

El Face-o-Diablo

will somehow leave you feeling a little dirty?

Deceptively difficult! What looks like a walk in the park, climbs more like a mugging.  A thin and slippery start greets the unsuspecting climber. Hard to hold on too, the beginning for most will unleash a brutal beating. Thin crimps, shallow side-pulls, awkward feet, and off-balance movement make this more of a battle than a climb. If you can make it to the first bolt, keep your guard up, its not over!

Most always run as a top-rope, this route can be led, rehearsal is advised as the first bolt is well above the crux moves and about 15-18 feet high.

I couldn't quite bring myself to give a 50 foot sport route on Wall Street 3 stars, but this is a really really good route all the same.  Devious face climbing reminiscent of Eldo (thin edges that slant the wrong way, etc.).  It starts 2 climbs left of the prominent and popular LF corner, "30 Seconds Over Potash" (in between is a thin .10a LF corner, Lucy in the Sky with Potash").  The first bolt is a bit high (climb in from the right), but once clipped it will be at your waist for the crux sequence.  Above is 5.8-5.9ish climbing with 3 adequately spaced bolts, to a good bolted anchor.

The easiest route on Wall Street. Popular with little kids.

If there are 40 routes on Wall Street then this definitely ranks in the Top 40.  I wouldn't plan a road trip around it, but this is worth doing if you're looking for one of the few 5.8 leads in the desert or a warm up.

This left facing corner is distinguished by two drilled angles at the top.Upward progress can be made via almost any climbing technique: laybacking, jamming, stemming, etc.  Locate the route on the left side of the cliff before encountering the second top roping area.  To its left lies Lacto Mangulation (5.10b) a right facing corner with several bolts and to its right is skeletron (sp?) a bolted 5.11d.

Descent: Short rap to ground ~ 50 feet.

It looks possible to climb passed the anchor on Top 40 via a thin hand crack and achieve the top of the anchor on skeletron.

First moves are protected by two drilled angles.  Crux lies after this and before the roof/bulge.  A number 2 cam fits under the roof.  Roof moves are good even though it looks sandy.

Climb first half of Potash Sanction 5.10d then traverse left and climb the left facing corner then right facing corner.

Start 15 left of Static Cling.  Do a few moves to get into the splitter hand crack formed by the main wall and a giant flake that leans into the corner to the right that forms Static Cling.  Climb the splitter then follow the crack up the most obvious line which  trends right and widens about 30 feet up until you reach the Static Cling anchors.  A bit harder for small hands or people with little jamming experience.

This climb is described in some guide books as a top rope.  It protects well the entire climb but the fact that you are climbing a giant detached flake becomes more obvious the higher you climb.  The flake must weight many tons and is reasonbly solid but I suggest placing cams on the upper section in such a way that the outward force of a cam would exert a force on the flake pushing left/right of you as you face the rock (toward Static Cling) versus into/away from the rock (toward the road). It may be possible to push the flake outward but definitely not to the right toward Static Cling.  This may not be possible in the wide section but is possible on the upper part of the route.

Thump the flake up high with the heal of your hand and discover where the name of the climb came from.  Sorry, the name doesn't refer to taking a bong hit.

Starts right of

Steel Your Face

in the trees.  This climb felt harder than

Steel Your Face (10a)

, and was certainly more difficult to protect.  Basically bad gear placements up a thin sandy seam, and of course, sandy slab climbing.  Make sure to follow the easiest climbing about 2/3 of the way up (I got tunnel vision and tried to go straight to the next pin).  Also, be careful of the crumbly flake near the top.

Gosh my review makes this climb sound fun, doesn't it?

Located 2 routes to the right of 30 Seconds Over Potash.  I believe this is a rarely done route, but it is truly fun and challenging. I would give it 3 stars, but the drilled pins near and at the top of the climb was placed in some awkward spots. Use a #3 or #3.5 in the roof hand/fist crack near the top.  Solid 11b route requiring a combination of skills including smears, fine footwork, crimps and jams.  The crux is a small bulge about 2/3 of the way up.  The key here is definitely footwork.

A slab that surmounts the right edge of a small bulge.

Eat the Rich is quite fun, but so short.  It's a little bit sustained but presents hand jams in the middle that ease climbing.  As a pretty short finger crack you will be wishing for more.  The crux is the last couple moves at the top where the crack thins and you must negotiate less straight-forward movement to clip the chains.

Find this climber's left of the 5.8 slab, or climber's right of Static Cling.  It's on the climber's right side of the HUGE pullout on the downstream end of Wall Street.

A TR opportunity once you send Fist Full of Potash.  The B-line from the ground up to the anchors on Fist Full Of Potash yields some so-so yet interesting face climbing.  For no more effort than this requires, it is worth taking a spin on after the original line, but otherwise doesn't merit going out of your way.

This thing is supposed to clock in at 5.9.  We made it up the first two pitches; the first pitch is a shallow off width with minimal small gear at the back. The second pitch is awesome. You deal with a corner with a two large cracks coming at you one from each side. Worth doing for the second pitch. After that you have to be comfortable with chimneys or bring lots of Gold Big Bros because its really wide and really long. There is a detached pillar at the top of the 2nd pitch on which we put some webbing around and a rap ring to bail off. There is not fixed gear on the route except for what is described as a single pin to rappel off of at the top". Lots of loose rock and besides my party I havent seen anyone on it before. Be prepared for a famous Beyer Adventure.

Under the Boardwalk begins with a somewhat awkward sequence on the right arete to a high first bolt. Move out onto the face clipping a couple of old 1/2" bolts, trending left to the twin-arete feature. The climb changes shape here becoming thuggy compression climbing up the prow.  The angle eases off two bolts before the chains but the climbing stays tenuous until they're clipped.

This is excellent desert face and friction, and is a fairly sustained route (and long for Potash).  It weaves its way up to a bulge and then around it to the right.  Continue slight left again and then upwards to an anchor some 100 feet up.  The length of the climb itself might be more like 110 ft due to weaving.

The crux comes high on the climb; it is friction moves a few feet off the last drilled angle.  Have fun, and BTW this route is evolving every year with each ascent.

Use a 70 m, or two ropes, to get down safely.

The crux is protected by a fixed piton above the white sploch.

"Best Route Ever" is what the late great Dave Pegg would express after any new route he had completed once returning home! Fun mixed route! Early on in the pitch there are a couple of bolts that were placed. Falling onto trad gear there would explode the flake making the route unclimbable.

The route was put up ground up, in my personal opinion going ground up on mixed routes tends to make for a better flow to the route!  Half way up the pitch after a short hands section we busted right do to rock quality in the bulge. Higher up on the pitch a super fun slanting tips crack is encountered. We did not clean out right of this system FYI. This pitch is 30 meters on the nose , don't use a short 60meter rope!

This route starts to the right of "Shoot up or Shut up".  Follow the flake up to the crack.  At the top of the crack (look for a bolt) move left and climb up to the chains

A spectacular line up a thin left-facing corner to the right side of an arch. Stem and edge up the corner and its outside arête (crux between bolts 3 and 4) to an anchor right of the arch. 4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.

It seems like this route doesn't have a lot of traffic on it but it's really fun climb. Desperate double knee-bars at the beginning with some old bolts and drilled pitons leads to the fun top part above some small pro.

A bit sandy ...

The crux is at the top two bolts, bit spooky and run-out to the chains. An excellent route all the same, even more so in the afternoon, when it is in the shade.

However, this route is much more exciting if you don't have a guidebook and start up it because it "looks cool"....

I think this is the best "sport" route on Potash Road.

This is a quality yet overlooked route on Wall Street.  It throws a lot of variety at you from finger tips to wide and keeps you thinking the whole time.  It is steep and fairly sustained.  The first 30 feet are slightly overhanging and good rest are few.  Most people only do the first pitch.  If you have climbed Astro Lad, Potash Sanction and Static Cling, this is the next step.

P1. Charge off the ground into the 10 inch to 4 inch crack to a stance(photo at right).  Then, climb fingers and tips,  a short hand crack and into a sort of shallow chimney.  Then, on up to the large ledge with anchors visible from road. Don't park your car or your dog at the base when climbing this one.  Some loose rock may be encountered especially towards the top.  This route would be a classic if the rock was solid the whole way.  The rock is mostly solid, a bit sandy in spots and soft at the top although easier.  Quite worthy regardless.    One 70 meter rope to rappel or two 60's.

P2. Climb up and left on 5th class to the base of right facing corner with a beautiful thin splitter crack.

P3. Climb the beautiful thin crack (5.12 according to Bjornstad) to older looking anchors. Several tips to finger size pieces may be necessary.

Other P2.  From the top of the first pitch climb slightly down and traverse right past some  newer bolts and then straight up following bolts to an anchor 5.?.

Other P3.  Climb the left facing corner above. 5.?

Note:  I have only climbed pitch one.  I provided the other pitches in hopes that someone with better beta could fill in.  They look really good but hard [to me].  I hope to climb them someday.  I certainly will update the description if I do.

Also referred to as

Little Thailand

. A Fun, not-that-well-protected intermediate lead. Crux is the move after you've clipped the last bolt before the anchor.

This route is quintessential Wall Street; great movement on ok/pretty good rock. Tenuous climbing leads through the first 20ft to the first bolt, then great moves lead upwards toward the crux. The last few bolts escalate into powerful lay-backing, gastoning, and stemming, utilizing the classic vertical runnel features often found here.

We put this up yesterday. Climb the perfect handcrack that is

Potash Bonghit

, then traverse left on good edges (for Potash) that don't all aim the way you'd like. It was gonna be much longer, but something important broke... so its stopped as is.

This is an obvious seam to the left of Seibernetics and Unemployment Line. The climbing is tenuous, with tiny protection. Very cool route.

Easy climbing leads to the #2 placement, then you'll find some odd cracky climbing to, and past, the first bolt. The #3 goes in, and one more awkward move gets you to the next bolt. Very cool moves constitute the crux; getting established and transitioning left. The remaining rock in the upper part isn't the most stellar, but the climbing is engaging, and the fact that the pitch is so long is cool.

This route is a logical ending to Pounding The Frog Direct. We came up with all sorts of funny stories about why that route ended up veering directly right into Visible Panty Line, and I would love to know if anyone has the actual info. The new terrain takes you up one of the last prominent unclimbed features at Wall Street.

You start off on PTFD, busting the boulder problem then voyaging straight up after the three pitons. Fun and engaging climbing past three well-spaced bolts brings you all the way up the prow and into Best Route Ever where you'll finish on the final corner of that route. Some of the holds may need to be approached lightly but anyone who knowingly voyages up this thing should understand how to proceed accordingly.

Dust off your shoes before smearing to the first bolt.  The line travels slightly left of the bolt then follows edges to the anchor.

Another neglected route, with a distinctly difficult start in some of the best varnish at WS, and a somewhat wild ending over the roof. Good and varied climbing, with only a little choss.

Also called

The Bush Line

, pitch one climbs the right trending crack.  Second pitch is lower angle face climbing.

Great Route with lots of thin balancy and technical moves. All the old pins have been replaced with bomber bolts. Dont cheat yourself and stick your fingers in the old pin holes!

It may be possible to top-rope the first half of this route from the station on top of Steel Your Face. But the swing becomes increasingly dangerous the higher you get.

Mixed route, pretty sandy now, a mix of potash choss and good stone.  Start below the shallow corner, green camalot in a slot about 8 feet up, then clip three bolts that lead to a short wide slot with a chockstone.  Move past this and up right to a 2 bolt anchor with chain.

The tufa's are on the left side of the corner.  Actually they look more like those alien worms from the beginning of the X Files movie.

I thought the patina on the rock looked like a stegosaur oriented vertically hence the name.  Fun movement throughout this short route.  Thoughtful and  balancy climbing for the grade.

Crux comes early moving past bolt one on the tail section of the stego.  Still engaging moving through a short corner near the top.

This is kind of a sporty route, as far as climbing with gear goes.  Little bit everything on this one from a hand jam, to finger slots, to not-so-obvious stemming to friction. It doesn't look like much from the ground, but it climbs fairly well.

If you're a snobby climber - don't bother with this one.  We'd all hate to hear another whiny climber.  However, if you're the type of climber that likes to climb for the sake of experience, versatility, and simple fun, then put on those shoes and put this baby up.

If you're up for it, on the way down Visible Panty Line, set up a top-rope on High Over Datura to the right.  Although the TR of this face might not be worth it to you unless you are willing to try 5.11+ friction and balance.  It's a humbling and a learning experience.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Wall Street