Another fun Flatiron route with a reasonably short approach.  This climb is approximately 300' long.  The bottom of the east face of the Spy is connected to the north edge of the First Flatironette.  Climb this face near it's north (right) edge to a five foot vertical step, where the Spy becomes a separate rock.  Climb over the step either on the left (5.3) or right (slightly harder).

Now follow the narrowing arete to the summit.  Very exposed and not much pro.  Since you are on a narrow fin, a fall by either leader or follower could result in a pendulum down either side, and it might be hard to return to the route.

From the summit, continue west and pass an overhang by means of a jump.  Hike back down the north side of the rock.

East Ridge

Spy Vs. Spy

Mole Hole

The South Face of

The Spy

is steep and featured and therefore inviting.  There are a couple of other possible lines here, but the protection and rock quality on those are suspect.  This route is the most obvious weakness to the right of the big tree and the bird poop stains....  Named for one of the most famous spies of all time, I was really hoping 007 would be 5.7, and luckily enough that feels about right.  This has most likely been climbed before, if not, it should get climbed some more....  The middle section has some awkward moves and a little suspect rock, but if you have a rope, there is tons of good gear.  When you approach the lip, the rock quality is as good as anywhere in the Flatirons, and you won't want it to end.  The crack gains the

East Ridge

right before its crux bulge.  You can belay here and do one pitch to the top of

The Spy

.

From the Base of the spy, as for the East Ridge, walk north and then West up the North side of the rock.  After about 30 meters you will pass a massive roof, some 10-15 feet off of the ground.  At the right side of this roof there is a system of flakes and cracks that clims up and right, then up and left at the top.  The top moves are the crux with moves on small holds just left of a left-leaning, left-facing open book corner.

Climb up the highest line via stemming, cracks, and jug holds.

Description

Protection

Routes in The Spy