An excellent route up the sunny southwestern corner of the formation.  It starts in a shallow corner with a thin crack (5.9ish).  After a couple moves to the top of the corner, move slightly left to the exposed arête.  Climb the large patina plates on the arête to the top.  Pro includes TCUs and maybe a slung plate or two.  It looks questionable from below, but ends up having solid placements right where you need them (PG).  The best route on the crag.

Lips Like Sugar

McStumpy  Sandwich

Flake Hickey

Count Chocula

The Three Musketeers

Sugar Daddy

Squirrel Roast

M & M's Peanut

M & Ms Plain

My Balls feel like a Pair of Maracas

Little Rock Candy Crack

Kendall Mint Cake

Creme Egg

Nestle's Crunch

Jolly Rancher Firestix

Wayne's World

Butterfingers

Bare Leigh Legal

Chicken Bones

An easy start up blocky ledges gets one to the base of a smooth water worn groove. Climb this with little to no protection to reach a horizontal crack then move left and finish in a thin crack, the left of two.

Good climbing on this but the poor protection makes this perhaps best as a toprope.

A direct start has been toproped by climbing the faint seam just to the left of the groove, which takes one directly to the upper thin crack.

Started out on a rail and moved up and slightly right towards the bolt 20 or so feet up.  Above the bolt the rock is solid and the climbing gets steep  climbing past a horizontal and through some thin seems. One of my favorite leads as far as keeping my head together goes. Good Times!!!!Rap off M&Ms plain.

This is a short, clean, narrow (4 inch) offwidth, near the left end of the east face.

Climb

The Three Musketeers

to it's second bolt and then break left up the featured face to the top.

This face climb is on the wall just across from the northeast corner of Little Rock Candy Mountain.

This climb has awkward finger jamming crux on good rock.  It starts up a left-facing corner on the west face, and continues up a crack to the top.

A fun, runout and exposed knobby face climb.

This the crack that is 3' left of M&Ms Plain and is a thin crack that goes to fists higher up. Coming in from the right is easier than the direct start on this route that is more a face climb than a crack climb.

A short and awkward climb up the most obvious of the two cracks on this face.  The crux comes about ten feet off the ground and involves an balancy move from the flaring crack onto the face.Difficult to protect and not recommended.

Start off a big boulder to climb this bigger boulder with a high first clip. Fun but slightly grainy liebacking gets you to the cool little summit.

This route is the left slanting crack to the far right of M&M's Plain.  Start below several sloping flared horizontal cracks.  Head up the horizontals then gain the main crack and follow it up to the top.

This is a secure, knobby hand crack on the left side of the north face.  Rappel from the top.

Start from a boulder at the base and climb a line that moves up and left to parallel

Little Rock Candy Crack

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Located on the southwest face of Little Rock Candy Mountain, this is the route to the right of Sugar Daddy. An easy start leads to a very thin corner. Good feet at the base of the corner fade, requiring multiple moves of stemming. Follow the corner up to the roof. Undercling and reach for the 5' roof move. The route then joins Sugar Daddy for easy climbing to the top.

Unless you have very thin fingers, this route requires multiple stemming moves. A good precursor to the more challenging stemming routes.

Easy start to reach the interior of a flake with an overhanging bottom, which leads up onto the outside arete fin that forms the right side of the Nestle's Crunch dihedral. Pretty wild. Pretty cool. Finish via the fingers-to-hands crack of Sugar Daddy and Nestle's Crunch.

Start in a short vertical crack and then climb straight up the face staying between the other two routes on either side.

Step across gap onto face, head up past 6 bolts through one roof (or go around to the left) head up a steep holdless arete, and through another roof. Two bolt anchor with chains.

This is a short steep face with large, widely spaced holds.  I found it to be much harder than its listed rating of 5.4.  On the west face, follow a crack (face climbing) to a ledge half way up, then traverse right into a left-facing corner, and follow that to the top.

Description

Protection

Routes in Little Rock Candy Mountain