Tricky start to easier jug hauling then cool roof moves.

G-Men

5.8 C

Painless Steal

Injury Reserve

Monster Buck

3/8 Mexican

Registered NILFs

Raycreational Jug Use

A Few Too Many

Bisquick

Canadian Cartel

Canadian Bacon

Bouldering 101

Marcy's Playground

Ray Guns

Venezuelan Mafia

A moderate mixed line.  Of note, Marcy drilled her first bolt from a hook placement while establishing this route ground up, so congrats to Marcy on a job well done.  :)     

  Start at the left-leaning ramp near the right side of the wall.  Head up and left about 30 feet to three bolts.  The bolts lead up to a traverse that leads directly right.  Finish at a rap anchor on a ledge directly above the start of the climb.

Steep thin face climbing to a bulge finish.  A bit reachy for me at 5'6".

This line between G-Men and Venezuelan Mafia tackles the large, blank-looking roof feature on the left end of the Lower Wall. 

 Climb easier rock up a vague crack feature for 15 feet to where things steepen. Clip the first chain draw in the roof if you can, then launch into a series of razor crimps leading to an obvious jug slot midway through the roof. Several sequences are possible through this section, depending on crimp strength, height, and jumping ability.

 From the slot, clip the next draw and rest up for another sequence out the second half of the roof to the lip. This will likely involve some foot trickery, a crimp pinch and slopey crimps just over the lip. One more challenging sequence leads to a jug and a no-hands rest below the second roof. Easier but interesting pulling leads over this feature to the anchors.

 The route stood as a closed project for a few years before Aaron opened it up in spring 2017. I didn't get a chance to get on it until I returned to Tucson in summer 2018, by which time Aaron had injured his AC ligament on the route and I sprained my ankle a week before bouldering in the Wilderness of Rocks, hence the name.

Great face climbing right off the deck leads to  hard moves over a roof.

Pumpy climbing up a steep laybacks with good gear, leads you to a bolt at the crux.  Fun face climbing to the ledge then one more bit of business through the top bulge to the chains.

Short but fun sport line on the far right side of the lower wall. 

  Of note, Josie Becker put in a lot of work bolting the majority of this climb, so many thanks to her for her efforts! 

  Climb tricky moves past three bolts to a ledge under a large overhanging block.  A short section of very powerful, fun moves lead up the overhanging arete and over the right side at the top.

Steep crack, corner, roof, bulges, and a wild move at an overhanging corner.  Rock is not 100% but the solid pro can be found all the way up.  The final moves are as fun as it gets.  If you don't want to do the hard finish work right to a fun 5.7 chimney that doesn't climb like one.

Two cruxes, one on the lower tier and one on the sharply overhanging plated face above.  Unfortunately there is about 20 feet of very easy climbing between the lower tier and the upper.  So one is doing two 20 foot crux sections with a good rest between them.  The anchors are just a few feet past the final holds and you will need to get your shoulders past them to clip them and it is a hard clip until you get your feet and fingers set.  A lot of folks will be grabbing the anchors on this one.

Moderate climbing to a ledge with a stout move off of it and a good finish.

While the Venezuelan Mafia is certainly frightening, the Canadian Cartel is a force to be reckoned with. The plaid shirt wearing, Moose riding, raw maple syrup swilling mobsters will leave you feeling weak and disoriented. "Good day eh?"I've been looking at this line for a long time, but finally got around (or got strong enough) to bolt it last year. Then the Mountain caught on fire, and then the winter came. This line climbs up and over a large roof and tackles the leaning arête just right of Venezuelan Mafia. Sustained technical and powerful climbing on small knobs and side pulls over bullet rock will tax your endurance and footwork. The movement and rock quality are excellent on this climb, but be prepared for some sharp rock (as is typical with the area) and some demanding clips. This climb is a tight fit between the routes on either side, but climbs an independent and obvious line. You will share some foot holds on Venezuelan Mafia, but will be interacting with them via your fingers.  The bolt line is the line, and follows it closely. Note: As for the grade, this is my best estimate—I climbed directly over the roof with the bolt at my waist, safely protecting the move. I'll be interested to see what others think.

Great moves from the start that ease less than you might think in the middle.  As a bonus the top has a thoughtful section as well.  Don't let that wide crack scare you either.

Big holds to small holds and a tricky sequence on slightly overhanging rock.

Steep face, easy crack and a steep head wall finish make this worth bringing a small rack along.  It eases up a lot once you reach the gear section and may be no harder than 5.7 or 5.8.  The head wall will bring you back to 5.11.

Easy face leads to steep face then thin holds which lead to big holds on very steep rock.  Getting to the fifth bolt only looks a little spicy.  The final steep moves are really cool.

Beautiful spot with a creek below it.  To date there are two walls both of which face west northwest. There are not many climbs and none of the climbs make it into the classic category but you can have a nice day. The lower and tallest wall is maybe 70 feet tall but has a big break about 2/3 of the way up it.   The upper wall is roughly 50 feet tall at and is much more climbable with overhanging jug hauls from 5.8 to 5.11. 

  To the best of my knowledge this small area was discovered and probably first climbed by Ray Ringle. He and some friends top-roped most of the lines on the upper wall and may have done the same on the lower wall as well. He tried to convince me to set it up for leading but I declined until recently. A single route Venezuelan Mafia 5.11+ was put up on the lower wall by Luis Cisneros and Christian Espanol.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lower Wall