The striking center face that has a piton sticking out from the crack up higher. My estimation is that this climb could be "safely" bouldered with probably 10 pads minimum, with 3-4 of those pads being used as fillers in the massive gaps between the 5 ft boulders underneath. Worth it? I think so.

 (MP made me choose a star rating, but I haven't climbed this)

Icarus

Hot Wax

Laments like Lullabies

Hebro Left

The Upside Down

Hercules

99 Heroin balloons

Daedelus

The Berserker

Hebro Sausage

Starts on Hebro Sausage variation (as described here on Mountain Project) and when the right hand finger lock in the crack before pulling the lip is gained, traverse 8 feet right with hand jams to a giant undercling jug. From here, finish straight up the tall ironrock slab above the large sotol. The finishing slab, although having an unprotectable bad landing, is fairly easy edging through bomber rock. The typical Hueco slab choss isn't encountered until you start moving over to descend the boulder.

 I have changed the name of this problem after coming to the realization it was not inclusive and could be offensive to members of the community. I would like to express me deepest apologies to anyone harmed by this boulder problem's name and should have thought more deeply about the potential implications of names I choose.

Not as scary as its neighbor. The landing is better in that you just have to deal with the lip of the ledge that you will pass over, and once you are over it it is a relatively flat landing. Climb good horizontals straight up to the left of The Berserker on the N face of the boulder. A good warm-up to check your head space.

Sit start with a good left hand and right hand matched in a sloping dish.  Move up to a sloping shelf and figure out how to match without loosing core tension and cutting the feet.  Once matched make a big move to another sloping shelf, match again, and throw to better crimps.  Stand up and get established on the arete and drop off, or continue up the easy choss.

Very cool roof crack with mostly slopey holds. Start at the back and work your way up to the chossy topout with a bad/dabby landing (the only drawbacks of this climb). Not a highball by any means, but good spotting is recommended.

Start matched in big hueco and make some moves up and right, passing a positive in cut flake, a pinch and more huecos. Take care on the top out.

Interesting climbing, starts low on a good right hand side pull and a decent left around the corner

Start low on positive incut and make moves to a jug shelf. Continue up the smooth face to the horizontal crack using any means possible.

Thin and committing. The landing is a square just big enough for one pad with a 5' tall boulder on either side, you definitely don't want to be hitting the edges of either. Follow slashing seams with thin edges up to a horizontal that is followed left to the top.  

  Crimpy moves on holds that you can never really pull straight down on and bad feet take you up past one hold that looks spooky. Finish the difficulties with a slightly terrifying deadpoint to the thin horizontal crack that is followed out left to finish.

This boulder is worth doing and maybe slightly more fun than the Hebro LeftStart sitting slightly to the right of the start of Hebro Left. Get a left hand and heel in the large scooped hold that is used for the right hand on the original problem. Right hand goes in a good undercling under the roof. Make a challenging move to a undercling / sidepull pocket and work out the lip on mostly good holds. Pull the lip and get the horizontal crack as an undercling and stand up. Drop off or continue up the chossy face.

Shady for the most part, the main face of the boulder faces N and the Wall of Early Morning Light which sits up behind the main face of the boulder faces NE. This area is pretty secluded as there is not much else around here. A smattering of easier problems then good stuff in the V2 to V6 range and 99 Heroin Ballons V8+, which is off on its own. Most of the better problems are tall or have questionable landings, but some of the easier stuff has landings on the trail which is nice and wide as it passes the boulder.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Icarus Boulder