Start on Half Baked. Instead of finishing left to the anchors, climb through 3 more bolts up and right to go to the Bun in the Oven anchors. A nice steep extension of Half Baked that doesn't change the grade much. Allows for quick toprope of Bun in the Oven.

Baked Buns

American Spirit

Sunshine

Happy Pappy

Under Cooked

Half Baked

Good To Be A Gaper

Bun In The Oven

Climb Against Nature

Sundance

This route heads up the center of The Oven, and is hard as hell to figure out which route is it until you've been up another route to get a look at all the bolts on the wall.

The easiest way to find it is to look for the clusterfuck of bolts in the center of the oven, look for the two routes that seem to intertwine (because they do) but share the first four bolts, and then choose the bolt route between the two that heads up the less steep terrain (which is to the right.)

Another good way to get your bearings is to spot the bolted hard looking crack about 45 feet off the ground, which has bolts just to the right of the brack (Carville has them listed to the left of the crack.)  This is Climb Against Nature (5.12b).  From Climb Against Nature at the level of the crack, count two bolt lines right, and this is Half Baked.

Climbing is simple up the first four bolts, which is where Under Cooked (5.11b) splits off to the route to the left, and gets really overhung.  Stay on more juggy terrian by heading straight up, and a small roof move greets you a few bolts later.  After the brux climbing gets pretty easy real fast and traverses hard left to the top anchor of the climb.  Using the bolt that's just right of the top anchor and continuing up a few more bolts through a blank looking bulge section is Super Baked (5.11c).

Awesome route that deserves more traffic. Start up the first overhang, pulling a difficult-to-decipher first crux past the 3rd bolt. After clipping the 4th bolt, either step far left (easier) or go directly up (harder) to get onto a sloping ledge. From the ledge, launch up an even steeper overhang, with a second crux making a long move to a right-hand jug below the last bolt.

This is the rightmost bolted route on the north Wall, and can be easily missed unless you look up about 20 feet in the air just right of Sundance, and around the corner to the right from the other bolted routes of the wall.

Climb up a runout and somewhat difficult (5.9) section to the first bolt about 20 feet off the deck. From here, climbing is smearing and using whatever tiny hands you can find in often moderately runout sustained sections.  This is definately a newer climb than Sundance, as indicated by the sharpness of many of the tiny features. Wander right following the bolts to the runout top section which wanders back to the left and finally to the top anchors.

This is a fun, steep route in the Oven. Probably a little newer than the other routes. The climbing gets progressively harder up to the fixed clip. You should be able to project the route and lower from the fixed gear if need be.

Overhanging the entire time.  First half shares moves with Half Baked.  As you branch out left there is two sets of horizontal rails.  The first rail is good.  The second is not.  Match on second and make crux crimp move through bulge.

This is the longest easy route at Big Chief.

Do not lower off the anchors. Bring up the second from bolt anchors on a nice ledge. A 70m rope is mandatory to rappel.

This climb starts on Sundance and traverses left and ends up on the gold face way above The Oven. The climbing is easy (most of it is 5.7-5.8), well protected, and is on good rock. Be sure to use long runners sometimes even double lengths.

Climb Sundance past the first 2-3 bolts to a small ledge. This is where Sundance starts traversing right. At this point go left and up towards a wide crack. Clip the bomber fixed hex in the first crack, then climb left across the lip of the roof into a second dihedral/crack system. Stem the dihedral and traverse left onto the exposed juggy face. Climb up towards a shallow slanting roof on the gold headwall. The crux is a short well protected traverse under the roof. Finish by going straight up through cracks to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. Rap here. It is exactly 35m to the ground.

Of the main part of the Oven, this is the rightmost bolted climb of the crowded bolt section that consists of Half Baked (5.10a), Undercooked (5.11b), and their continuations. Walk into the pit known as the oven, and it's the route that moves straight up right on front of you on the right side. A waterstreak on the grey the crux block also makes this route stand out about 35 feet off the ground.

Climb up gently overhung blocks using mostly large hands and all the fun grainy basalt smearage you can handle. A fun crux section awaits after six bolts in the grey waterstained block where the large hold sits visibly just out of reach. After the crux climbing resumes back to mostly large holds to the top anchor, where a final intersting move brings you to the coldshuts.

The route is located on the left side of the ampitheater. Climb a broken face to reach a short, steep crack. Above, trend right through a bulge to reach the anchor.

One of the only slab routes on the north wall, Sundance also has a direct .11a start that begins with an overhung section and a good mantle.

It is the second route from the right on the North Wall, and after a moderate start you find yourself on a ledge and join the direct start.  Then you climb past 7 (?) bolts on slabby terrain that is surprisingly challenging.  There are three bulges that make for ~10a moves and each is punctuated by an easier section.

It looked like a joke from the ground, but I was surprised by how much fun I had on the slab.

Description

Protection

Routes in The Oven