A variation to Cassius Blue that follows a subtle ripple up the right hand of the slab to a jug. Cyclosia is highly committing requiring delicate movement on water polished features high above a solid granite landing. Makes for a very enjoyable toprope as the crux moves are classic on the same perfect granite as Cassius. The name is short for Cyclosia Midama a deadly month which mimics the look of a butterfly and can secrete lethal poison in self-defense.  This problem was "head pointed" after rehearsal.

Cyclosia

Cassius Blue

Warhammer

The Body Electric

The easiest DWS problem at the Indian Leap, but also one of the most classic. This aesthetic line weaves its way up the flawless granite slab to the right of Warhammer following a system of cracks and water polished face holds. Start up a easy crack off the ground around the corner from the main slab, then follow a system of horizontals to a fantastic no hands rest above the water, finish using a cruxy shallow vertical crack and small pods. This problem gets a R rating because the initial crack and the moves around the corner are over a tongue of rock that sticks out into the pool, but don't be intimidated.

This route shares the same middle section as the route "The Body Electric". Route was done traversing in from the left side along the scoop at the base of the wall which can only be done at lower (summer) water. Follow the ledges up for a few moves and then break left onto the finishing panel of rock.

This climb took me two tries and is a great way to fool around on the rock during a hot summer in New Hampshire. The crux comes close to the top about 20' off the water. The topout is solid and pretty secure although the time I fell was in the top lieback crack/arete.  

  I've been told the water is too deep to ever touch bottom but always be aware of your fall zone and scope it out before trying it.

I guess this area is becoming slightly more popular with a few problems/routes added. From the parking area, it is a 30 second walk to the falls. A very popular area for other users such as swimmer's, cliff jumpers and other riff raff. Apparently also on private property so no bolting. Shouldn't have to be said but general ethics apply as well (no tree removal, no chipping, don't be a chode...etc)

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Indian Leap Falls