Someone, please own up to the FA of this excellent route!

D's Dry Dream begins in a deep, left-facing dihedral and breaks out right to a fine, well-featured face at 40 feet or so. This is a really fun route that can be done with most of the moves at 5.9 or below. It may get a 5.10 rating no matter how the route is done for the one move that enters the face. Start in the dihedral by climbing on the right side only and the route has a pair of 5.10 cruxes; stem the start and the route stays 5.8 or 5.9 up to the transition point that breaks out right. Both ways are a kick.

This is a fun route and well worth hitting while on the hill. Two stars for the good rock, fun climbing, thoughtful moves, and being well-protected.

D's Dry Dream

High Plains Whimper

Drinking Wine with the Chinese (aka The Jizzler)

Risky One (aka Best Route EVER!)

Mind Mantel Arete

Crack

Hate Hate (aka Whiskey Run)

Ian Murders Another Route

Death of Innocents (aka Chick Filet)

Corner

Henry Spies the Line

Sleeper

Moment of Weakness

Kevin Spies the Line

Table Top

Let's Wake up Ronnie and Barb

Umph

Unknown at TT Area

Pigeon Pile Pinnacle

69.5 Crack

Redrum

Don't Pout, Climb Up and Out

Kevin's Trad Line

When In Doubt

Ian and Pat Spy Yet Another Easy Line

Lying on the Ground

Don't Pout 'Cause Yer Down 'n Out

This is a fun little chimney.  The crux is right in the middle where the holds round off a little.  If you can stem well, it will be very easy.  Short beginners will provide some entertainment.  Bring a couple to "brush" some of the lichen.

This is a relatively sustained route with solid ledge handholds and pockets.  Mounting the ledge beneath the anchors is a little trickier than it looks.

This is a good crack climb which can be done gracefully with wide stems.  The crux is at a small overhang near the bottom which protects well with small cams.  Continue up the crack as it widens and move right to the anchors on

Death of Innocents

.

Stem up the dirty corner and get into an undercling.  Reach up and grab one of the coolest jugs in the whole area. More jugs lead up until you can step left to the

Hate Hate

anchor.

The Table Top area can be logically said to begin on the left with Mind Mantel Arete.

Begin in the corner system just right of the detached pillar. The East face/arete is MMA. Start off a ledge to get the first clip and begin to angle left for the arete. Above the second clip, one has the choice to move right for 5.10 or stay with the arete for 5.11. Either way gives a solid route on very good stone. Most things are obvious, but staying with arete requires a bit more hunting for the holds.

This is an obvious line to the right of

Mind Mantel Arete

that draws the eye of those who seek routes to keep one climbing newer terrain. Interestingly, someone, perhaps Dan or Tom, got to it first and added an anchor for your convenience. Good crack technique makes this easier than 5.9.

The start involves a few moves with trickier gear placement as one spot is too tight for a #2 Camalot and the next tends to umbrella out a #0.75 Camalot. A key footjam or two can make the next section more secure. Some may complain that the #2 Camalot spot squeezes out a handjam, but you can do both. At the mini-roof, you have choices. Going left gets you a big ledge, but pro gets scarce for a bit. Face climbing more directly over the mini-roof appears less probable but is no harder. Forcing oneself right may be more awkward. Gain the next ledge. An okay #1 Camalot can be placed below the fractured plate. A yellow Alien helps protect the final bit to the two bolt anchor with links.

Just left of the dihedral with

D's Dry Dream

on its right face is a bolted line that takes off in a shallow, inverted V-slot. Surmount a bulge on jugs and run up to the anchor shared with the route on the left. This line has fun moves, and while the rock looks dubious to start, it has climbed quite well with no hint of things reefing off. Still, it needs a date with Mr. Brush.

Start in the obvious, nappy chimney to the obvious ledge. Climb left of ledge past a couple of good gear placements. Clip bolt on left-facing corner and climb just right of previous route to a small ledge and a small crack. Place good gear in crack and step right on to a down-sloping ledge. From this point you have several options. I thought the most fun option was stepping right into the chimney and stemming across the chimney using the obvious mondo (right) and crimper (left) holds while clipping the 4 closely placed bolts on the face right of the chimney 5.8 and moving right to the anchor. One can also climb the arete proper from the down sloping ledge via pretty cool moves at 5.9.  One can also climb a still dirty corner from the down sloping ledge at about 5.5. These variations all end at the chain anchor.

Immediately right of

Henry Spies the Line

is a shallow dihedral with a trad crack (5.8/9) and a bolted face just right of the dihedral. This presently unnamed route starts in an improbable tooth-like undercling and delivers a hard crux right off the ground. Swim past this staying largely on the arete with foray onto the face on the right. It has good climbing and good stone, and it is worth the fight to solve the start. A word of warning, the starting knee-lock is probably not worth the pain - there are other answers.

This is a line starting just to the right of

High Plains Whimper

and joins it at the top. Perhaps one could consider it a variation, but it's mostly independent.

Start to the right of

High Plains Whimper

by ~15' in a dihedral of sorts. Beware of a left hand jam that could catch your thumb if you slip. Fight a bush or two (during the greener months). One can find a nice hold on the left wall to make this reasonable. Join

High Plains Whimper

near the top bolt. Finish at a two bolt anchor with chains.

Start on the left end of a face, just below a bulge. Clip the first bolt, move up the cracked face and then to the crack. From the ledge, make a committing move up to a nice hand hold before clipping the 5th bolt.

The crux comes right off the ground at a finger crack through an overhang.  From here, easier climbing follows the crack up the face.  There is another short difficulty at the top just left of the anchors on

Henry Spies the Line

.

This is a well-bolted boulder problem. It gets no stars in the guidebook, but it was fun.  The crux is a balance move left by the third bolt.  From the ground, we saw strange, little, chalked, polka dots.  You'll probably make some, too.

This is a very good beginner climb.  It goes slightly right, then left after the 2nd bolt.  From there, follow the bolts straight up.  It has large holds and big feet.

There is an alternate start to the right, ~5.9.

Eds. FWIW, this is not a great kid climb.

This is located just to the left of

Kevin Spies the Line

and about 50' right of the

Mind Mantel Arete

.  There are nice moves up the blunt arete on generally good holds.  I enjoyed this much more that the popular

Henry Spies the Line

next door.  The upper arete is continuously interesting.  It is more of a sport route than a trad route, but I listed it as trad because I think most people will want something more than the bolts.  Definitely worth doing!

#68 in Hubbel's book, #64 in Rolofson.

Head up to the nice looking crack on the right side of the arete.  Huge jugs keep the difficulty to a minimum.  Follow the crack until the ledge below the final headwall on

Henry Spies the Line

.  From here, there are choices; the best choice is to clip that final bolt that separates you from the anchor and make the moves up.  If you are dead set against clipping a bolt, you could move around either side of this headwall to reach the anchor.

The next line right of Alan Nelson's toothy starting route is this bolted seam that arches a bit to the right. This line is a reasonable challenge with lots of awkward holds and off balance moves. It is unclear to me whether this line stays with the seam/crack on the left or really takes off on the face. I have always used the crack/seam until it forces you right. It may be possible to run it strictly on the face, but this would raise the ante a letter grade or so. This is a nice problem for thought provoking body position.

Pigeon Pile is better than the name would imply, and its demerits stem more from the bolted (detached?) blocks than from the pigeon pile.  Begin on the obvious, bolted, South-facing bulge right of

Lying on the Ground

. The best stuff comes right off the deck with the first three clips and this is balancy and a bit powerful. Once on top of the block, pick your way carefully up to the anchor on largely good climbing. There are some dubious bolt placement, but I don't believe that anything will reef off.

This is a bottom feeder's delight.

This crack is just left of

Table Top

.  A blocky start leads to a hand/finger crack that angels from right to left.  The grade is around 5.8 if you keep your feet in the crack but may be a little easier if you use a wide left foot stem off the left wall.

We didn't set out to find a new route, but between my poor route finding skills and the guide which is a "little blurry" in the Table Top Area, this route found us and we were pleasantly surprised.

After climbing this route, you can easily setup a toprope on

Table Top

to maximize your mileage.

Redrum climbs a chimney with interesting moves in its second half.  This second half contains a nice hand and finger crack.  The first half climbs blocky, easy terrain but the upper part makes the route worth doing at least once if you have trad gear at hand.

This can be climbed independently of

Don't Pout 'Cause Yer Down 'n Out

by staying left in the right-facing dihedral and continuing up the crack, but it is very tempting to stem to the right.  Although the crack is perfect fingers, you don't really need it as jugs appear.

The crux is probably getting up the steep dihedral at the start, but the upper part of the crack is also steep and fun.  It would be harder, but it is littered with good horizontal holds.

This line follows the nice crack to the left of

Kevin Spies the Line

. I would not consider it a variation, since the bolt line is far enough to the right to be out of reach.

It may or may not be the same as route "G" in the Table Top main page. The crux is probably deciding where to stop and place your first pro - stances were good, so I ran it out until my feet were nearly at the height of

Kevin's

second bolt.

If

5.7 Dihedral

at Lookout Mountain Crag is a 5.7, then this is 5.6+ or 5.7- and flows enjoyably well. You should be able to TR off the anchors for

Kevin

.

Climb a left-facing slab past 2 bolts, pass the 2nd bolt on right (easier) or straight on (harder), and get established on a low angle slab and place gear while climbing to an obvious ledge. Step left of ledge and climb a clean face past 3 closely placed bolts to a chain anchor.

Per

curt86iroc

: for an alternate finish, leave the large ledge to the right and aim for the anchors on the neighboring route (

[Ian Murders Another Route

), clipping the last 3 bolts, 5.7. Watch for rope drag.

This is a three [now seven] bolt boulder problem can be started from the same stance as

D's Dry Dream

. This is Lying on the Ground. Gun for the nice ledge at 15 feet. It is reasonably easy to get the first two clips, but the third requires moving up to it first. This will net you a good clipping jug on the right. Nice problem with some specific beta.

Eds. note a subsequent, duplicate submission by

Carolyn

had been added & now deleted to help organize the database.

Where is it?  This climb is right of "

Lying on the Ground

". Follow a shallow grove on the left side of the "Pigeon Pile Pinnacle" that is about four feet wide and has two cracks (one on the right and one on the left side of the grove).  The groove goes straight up for about 40 feet, then angles right.

The hardest part to this climb is figuring out the pro right off the deck.  You have a flaring crack on your left that bottoms out, and a spooky flake up high on your right with a thin crack.  I did find a good nut placement at about the 10' mark on the right, and ultimately placed a TCU in the spooky flake crack.  The crux is moving past the flake.  Continue up the grove angling right until you get near the top of the pinnacle.  Near the top there is another large block on the left side of the crack that is dubiously attached to the wall.  It is probably best not to mess with it.

The belay bolts for

Pigeon Pile Pinnacle

can be used for the belay anchor (on the right of this exposed perch).  The pinnacle itself is a Leaning Tower of Pisa in its own right (leaning out and away from the main cliff that is). I belayed my partner from the top, and then we rapped down.

I'm giving this climb one star for the spook factor.  Be careful.

Description

Protection

Routes in Table Top Area