Thin climbing to the second bolt leads to a sequence of incuts all the way to the anchor. If you make it to the first bolt you're in there. Getting to the second isn't bad. After that finding the right path of giant holds and keeping a cool head will get you through. The runout between the 4th and 5th will get your attention. A great tricam placement almost exactly between the 4th and 5th removes the R rating altogether. As far as R rated routes go this one isn't too bad. Everyone in our group found the moves up to the 2nd bolt more like 10c after that it's like a puzzle of runout 5.8.

[Redacted]

Peligro

Brothers in Arms

The Greater Good

Electric Kachina

C.L.O.T.

Hatchett Job

Just Under The Wire

Sparky Does Power Tower

Scorpion

Just for Fun

Double Insulated

Catching a Buzz

Hard climbing at the start leads to great positive holds for the remainder of the climb. A tad sporty but with a bit of route finding you can weave a path from bolt to bolt never lacking in a secure hold. At the top of the climb you can clip the bolt of it's neighboring route before the final bit to the lower off anchor.

This route starts with a flake/lieback just right of CLOT, then moves up the corner with stemming/face moves and the occasional jam .  Needs to clean up a little, but has fun movement.  A good alternative to the 5.7 warm ups at Banana Belt to the right.

Marty's guide names this route as a gear climb named 'Peligro' with a FA by M. Strassman in 1990.  It looks like it's been retrobolted (?) recently.

Starts off the same 3rd class ledge as Scorpion, about 25' up. Traverse left for a few feet past a bolt. Make tenous moves up and left to another bolt (crux). The route then continues up, traversing left and right a bit to find the best line, past six or so more bolts to a shuts. A 15' runout on easier terrain keeps you engaged up high.

Scramble up two larger ledges to gain a steep face/corner with good holds.

A shady wide-hands corner which seemed pretty easy for its upgraded 10th edition rating of 5.9.  Crux is near the bottom.  The anchors shared with 3 other routes, none of which is popular, are surprisingly grooved.

Marked by a seam going through a yellow target symbol painted on the rock just off the ground.  After the seam, it turns into typical Gorge face climbing up to a small roof.  I ended up using a small cam or two to protect the insecure crux moves getting to the first bolt.

Gets a star for the name, but the climbing on the upper half of the pitch is mediocre.  Start w/ steep slab (2 bolts) then an 5.8ish finger crack.  At any obvious weakness, traverse right to the corner of Electric Kachina and proceed up this to EK's anchors.  Add some value by staying on the face left of the corner (5.8R).

Another quality route that sees a lot less traffic than it's neighbors at the popular Banana Belt even though it's only a short walk away. While the route was set up as a 2 pitch climb, doing it in one if you have a 70 seems like the way to go. The first pitch is just a short chossy approach to the real climbing above. Be careful after the ledge at the first couple of bolts and hope for an attentive belayer as to not hit the ledge if you fall(not the place for the soft catch belay). From there enjoy the well protected and fairly continuous climbing up one positive hold after the next.

We did this climb in one pitch and recommend doing it that way.  We were able to get down in two raps w/ a single 60m rope; be careful as both raps are stretchers.

Starts with a crack, then a 10b roof, then some enjoyable easy slabbing.  If doing it in one pitch, be mindful of rope drag.

Scramble up to a flake with a bolt on it. Either belay from below or here. Move left into an obvious groove/corner, and continue up past a couple more bolts. Continue up and right onto a fun, steep face with good holds to an anchor just left of "Black Chicks".

A nice, fun arete that is worth doing and at least as good as the neighboring routes. It's given an "R" rating in the 2000 Lewis guide, but the runout section after the second bolt is pretty casual and a small cam (1/2") placement in an obvious horizontal slot can be achieved prior to the first bolt.

Get ready to launch from the ground on this one! Clean, in-your-face techy, steep slab and edging past the first 5 bolts gets you to a decent rest, then continue through more steepness to easier climbing and the anchors.

Sustained hard 5.10 climbing right off the ground is the defining element of this great climb.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in High Tension Towers