This is the largest drainage to climbers right of Carson Peak, as seen from the road.  Climb up through the drainage, until reaching the summit ridge, and then continue on to the summit.

This is probably better known as an extreme ski descent than as an alpine climb.

The bottom third of the route is known as "Rob's Ravine" or "Carson Peak Gully".  It is possible to climb Rob's Ravine and then descend 3rd class terrain, without continuing on to the summit.  Details for this section can be found

here

.

In lean conditions, there should be exposed water ice at the base of the route, with sections of moderate snow and steeper rock bands exposed above.  In high snow years, the gully system could be completely filled with snow.

We climbed the the route in lean, early-winter conditions and found it occasionally difficult to find good rock protection.  We roped up for one pitch and only placed one piece of rock pro, on lead.

Pete's Dream

Saint's Way (AKA Y-Couloir)

The left branch of the Y-shaped couloir on the Northwest aspect of Carson Peak.

The climbing is characterized by moderate snow and rock climbing, interspersed with two short 5th class cliff bands.

There are multiple options for getting through the rock bands. We took left-most line of weakness through both rock bands. First rock band has one 5.6-5.7 move. Second rock band has a few 5.8-5.9 moves.

Eventually, the couloir takes you up onto an exposed 3rd class ridge, that leads you to the summit.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Carson Peak Alpine