This is the cool roof route located between

Aspiring Frog

and

Energy before Ecstasy

.  Take the trail to the Surreal Estate Wall, and walk left a minute or so.  The route goes through an obvious roof.

Climb the face past a couple bolts to the roof.  There is a bolt right in the middle of the roof - clip it and crank. Just remember that an 11 this steep has to have jugs, and go for it. Make sure you're warmed up or you'll end up like me and with a wicked flash pump.  Be careful as a couple of the pockets may be sharp - my partner sliced his hand pretty badly.  Above the roof, work your way up the face to the anchor and glory.

Hostile Crankover

Lemons, Limes and Jalapenos

Shy Roof

Thunder Tactics

Quickstrike

Thunder Thighs

War In The Banks

Desserter

Aspiring Frog

What's Biting Me?

Plate Tectonics

Otis

Solitude

Corner Blitz

Energy Before Ecstasy

The route is a fun 5.10c which is shaped like a dinosaur's back, just to the left of

Hostile Crankover

. The book claims 5 bolts, but it is, in reality, 6. Use the left side of the arete as the most obvious route next to between the 4th and 5th bolt.

Lemons, Limes and Jalapenos is an extension to

What's Biting Me?

After reaching the anchors on

What's Biting Me?

, bust left into a severely overhanging dihedral roof. Chase 2 bolts past some decent holds and a distinct lack of feet.

Shy Roof is a rare trad like with a roof! Climb the corner below the roof, then cracks through the roof, and into a left-facing corner. Use the anchors of

Energy Before Ecstacy

.

A classic route at The Bank. Start on the 15-foot ledge a few yards left of the Surreal Estate Wall (where the 2nd cliff-access trail ends). Pull the picture-perfect bulge on sinker pockets, then be prepared for continuous climbing all the way to the anchors.

Climb the face to the left of the large dihedral for 3 bolts. Move left, and surmount 3 more bolts on steep and impeccable limestone.

Two routes lie left and below the ledge where Thunder Tactics start.  These routes share the first 2 bolts.  The left route, Thunder Thighs climbs left of the tree and up a crimpy face w/ a few bulges, the line that climbs right of the tree is a 5.12b/c named Dr. Zeus.  Both of these lines are a short distance right of War at the Banks and some 40 yards left of Surreal Estate wall.  The climb probably doesn't see a lot of traffic.  A few holds feel a little creaky - making the route a bit unnerving.  Still an interesting line with a few thin boulder moves to the first bolt and some cranking up higher.

To find it buy the guidebook.  The concentrations of routes at Shelf make it almost impossible to give oral directions.  It is located on The Bank - North Side.

Awesome.  One of my favorite routes at Shelf.  Good assortment of climbing.  Start the climb on face. Move to two parallel hand cracks back to face and then climb right out to the arete up to the anchors.

Gain the flake to clip C1. Move left with reachy, sharp rock to C2 and a stance under C3. Clip C3 and move up and right towards the corner to C4. Continue up and into the black corner with nice hand jams and thinker feet to the small bulge at C7. Go left or right to C8. There is easier climbing to C9. Climb straight up the final vertical face past 3 clips to the reachy anchors.

Although no harder than 11c, this would be an impressive onsight!  What's Biting Me? follows chunky rock for the first 30 feet until it blends into nice, smooth limestone.  After clipping the first bolt, cryptic and small holds get you to a jug to make the second clip.  Follow better (but even more hidden) holds to make the third clip and set yourself up for the puzzling crux.  Three more bolts and juggy but sustained movement deposits you at the double chain anchors above.

Fortunately, any shifting plates are remnants of the past on this route.  Start by clipping a line of bolts parallel to the left-trending dihedral.  As the corner begins to thin out, a series of incuts and pockets lead you to the right and the crux bulge.

Short and powerful. The crux is between the 1st and 2nd bolts. More of a boulder problem...that starts on a ledge 15 feet above the trail.

Follow an obtuse, right-facing flake using the occasional face holds.  Move left towards the vertical panel, above which sits the intimidating cap roof.  Surprisingly steep climbing on good holds deposits you at the final clip before the anchors (the vertically challenged may have to be 'creative' through this section).  With the pump clock ticking down, puzzle out the final crux moves to latch the top of the cap rock.  If only the roof were longer or the bottom half of the route more sustained!  Even so, this route may provide a quick (short) fix for the steep terrain addicts at Shelf.

Climb on great big holds to and past C1 & 2 to a nice stance at C3. Move left to the steepening corner past C4 to C5. Climb the sweet corner with righty clips, smooth right jams, big left flakey sidepulls with smallish feet past 3 more clips to the anchors.

This route is located on the north side of the Bank right of

Hostile Crank Over

.

Face climb past (2 bolts) to a large roof.  Pull the roof (2 bolts) and finish off the climb on face (3 bolts).  Anchors are high to the right.

Description

Protection

Routes in 05. Thunder Tactics