Start in a big dihedral/chimney thing passing two bolts on easy terrain to gain a bushy ledge. From the ledge, climb the excellent, thin, techy business through tightly spaced bolts. Catch some rests to set up for the final crux. A stellar pitch all around.

Wimbledon Sisters

Patern of Fate

Good Medicine

Five Minutes For Fighting

Harpua

Sunhat Memo

Doctor Feel Good

Swedish Finger Yams

The best route at the crag for most climbers due to its length, rock quality, position, and easy grade. Follow the bolts up the increasingly steep face, enjoying the endurance as there really aren't any bomber rests for the 5.10 climber. Most cut right at the last bolt to get to the chains as it is just so appealing to climb the jugs rather than the slippery lieback flake.

Use a pocket and a decent gaston crimp with jello for feet to get from bolt 1 to 2, the crux, then climb 5.10 terrain up left through a roof with a jug above it to the anchors.

A fun jaunt up the face with some quality rock. One of the better climbs at Utopia with a manageable grade.

Great 3 pitch 5.8+ route link up. First pitch starts on tier 1 for 90'. This pitch can be broken up into an enjoyable 30' and 60' pitches by using the ledge. After climbing the first tier traverse climbers left 150' to the start of the Second tier. Climb to the left of a steep arete, climb the first few bolts before entering the steep corner for 70', no anchors at top but plenty of good cracks for building a quality anchor. traverse right for about 40' to find the base of the 3rd pitch 5.8.

Descend by walking off summit block, back to snake bite anchors, traverse 150' back to top of first pitch anchors.

This route was put up by someone who seemed to be lacking the funds for the standard Petzl 1/2" bolts and enjoyed metalwork. Follow the homemade bolts(still good quality, not like Zion's Pulpit 2nd pitch) up through some face moves to a fun layback flake crack. Crux seems to be traversing back to bolt 2 after wandering right of bolt 1.

Very similar to Swedish Finger Yams. Shares 1st couple of bolts with it and continues up the left line of bolts to chains slightly lower then SFY. Very consistent climbing. Sharp rock!

An excellent climb on yellow rock that seems to have little going for it in the way of aesthetics, and yet it all fits together. Start out on the fun slab with slopers and crimps past two bolts to below the roof. Clip the bolt just above the 2 foot obstacle, then surmount the thing using a great edge out right and the obvious left sidepull flake feature up high. Horrible crimps abound to steady yourself, but clip the 4th bolt off another good right facing sidepull, then balance up to the ledgy jug finish. Do it. The NU book gives this a lld/12a rating. Not as hard as other 12a's in the canyon.

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Routes in Utopia