Easy approach to a climb on an unique feature. Start on the front (west) side, climb through the giant "wuvi", then cruise your way to the top. Mostly 5.5/5.6 if you move right. If you stay left at the start, it's about 5.9. This route sports some one star climbing on a five star feature. Worth doing just for the novelty value and some cool pics.  

Groovy Wuvi

Jr. High Love Triangle

Dirty Love

A fun, easy route for an emerging 5.7 leader. Most of the route goes at 5.6 with a slabby, 5.7 move at the last bolt. Follow the obvious line of bolts to a fun "reach around" move about 2/3 of the way up. Reach up high to make the clip, reach around right to grab a big hole/pocket thing and then step out right onto the face. A fun, exposed "reachy" move. Move up to clip one last bolt then make a tricky, slabby move to get to the anchor. If you're tall, a couple of knobs out left keep the grade around 5.7. It may feel harder if you can't reach the knobs. Two bolt anchor with quick links and "courtesy clips" at the top.

 I have not yet explored it, but it may be possible to work your way left (then up and right) using trad gear to get to the top of the tower. Note that to get to this route, don't head directly toward the keyhole feature. This route is slightly right of the keyhole in a separate draw.

Another two star climb with a short, five star approach. Yes, it's a bit dirty in spots but if you've already climbing Groovy Wuvi, and Jr. High Love Triangle, you have to tick this one too. Stay right in the middle section to avoid most of the dirty bits. Use caution when pulling your rope, you'll drag down lots of gravel. Good introduction to dirty Sedona climbing. 

Southwest facing rock outcropping with obvious giant slot in the side that faces Red Rock Loop Road. Only one route currently, but lots of potential for moderate sport climbs with a few mixed sport/trad climbs. Gets morning and late afternoon shade.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Key Hole Rock