In the spirit of climbing every possible inch of rock at Lincoln Woods, I recently climbed a Diretissima of Peace Dove. Starts on the left face(as opposed to straddling the arête) and just uses the fin/rail on the right near the top (don't grab the left side of the face). The sit start uses a very sharp crimp and the right arête, fire up to a sloper on the lip (don't use the normal Peace Dove holds further back from the lip), move the Peace Dove sloper and match it, then the work the fin/rail with both hands to get to the top.

Peace Dove Direct

Bald Eagle

Bald Beagle

Olive Branch

Peace Dove SDS

Warhawk Direct

Vulture

Peace Dove

Warhawk

Peace Face

The name comes from the Graffiti Dove that is still visible on the face.  Start standing on the right side of the the face with which ever holds feel good.  Make your way up and left on the arete using slopers and anything else you can find.  This problem is so much fun and is pretty technical.  I recommend it from a sit at V4 but I think most everyone does it from the stand the first time around.

 Hint: An inobvious sidepull pocket in the face is helpful for many, might want to look for it ahead of time.

Start sitting at bottom left corner of peace dove face. Climb up arete using obvious block on left. Finish as for peace dove.  #1 on beta photo

Start sitting matched on the left side of the spray painted foot rail on peace dove. Move left into Bald Eagle. The block on the left is off, as well as the low detached foot.

Start same as for Peace dove, but climb up and right on slab to top out.  V3 from the sit.  #3 on the beta photo.

Sit Start of Peace Dove, start left hand on the sharp crimp on the right side of the face (the normal right hand start of Peace Dove V3), right hand on a crimp sort of low around the arete. Hit the normal start hold of Peace Dove V3, and finish up Peace Dove. Basically adds one move.

About 3 feet right of Warhawk (this is often confused as the climb "warhawk") start sitting with left hand in a deep undercling and right hand on high small mini sloper. Figure out a good right heel/toe and reach up left, very tension an friction based problem. Right in between #5 and #6 on beta photo

Start sitting in the middle of the face to the right of Peace Dove and left of Warhawk.  Climb up to hard move off of right sidepull and crummy left hand.  Better than it first appears.

The obvious arete on the backside of the boulder.  Start sitting and move slightly left then back to the arete for a tricky move to a good hold.  #5 on the beta photo.

Climb up easy face to the right of the Warhawk arete on back side of the peace dove boulder. There are several variations to this problem - all about the same grade.  #6 on the beta photo

Good collection of problems on two boulders, most notably Peace Dove and Warhawk.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Peace Dove Boulder