Locate the Y-crack feature about 100 feet to the right of Beautiful Wickedness. This route follows the left arm of the Y-crack. Rappel from chains of walk-off. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua Map 11 page 147 and Topo Ab page 148.

Horse of a Different Color

Kansas Twister

Twisted Rainbow

This ain't Kansas

Beautiful Wickedness

Wicked Witch

Rainbow Monkey

Flying Monkeys

First crack from the left. There are three cruxes moves through the climb. This crack requires a large variety of gear to 3 inches with small cams most helpfull towards the top. It can be easily toproped from a tree on top the wall. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua 2007. Map 11 page 147 and topo Ac page 149.

From the top of Wicked Witch (5.10a) rappel back side (north) of the ridge to a ledge and large Douglas-fir (most likely a stump now). Follow bolts back up to the ridge top anchors.

Same start on Y-crack as Horse of a Different Color. Climbs the right arm of the Y-crack with a lay-back crux move 3/4 of the way up. Rappel or walk-off. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua Topo Ab page 148.

Sustained pumpy overhung moves. An easy start the quickley becomes overhung. At pockets about 3/4 of the way up veer left for a tricky sequence near the corner, then right for a final tough move.

Follow bolts up south wall to summit. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua Map 11 page 147.

Toprope from anchors in notch on top of the left (south) buttress of Land of Oz. Most of the route is 5.7 with a 5.10a crux move towards the top.

Climbs past three steep huecos then either dyno right to a large bucket of make a clever static move to get past the third bolt (5.10d). Easier climbing up jugs leads to 5.10a friction to chains.

Prior to the clearcut, this relatively remote wall at the Callahans received a lot of attention from more experienced climbers looking for variety. There are several cracks and the steep wall is pocketed with small figure size huecos. Oz currently has eight established lines ranging from 5.8 to 5.10d ranging from 75 to 100 feet in height.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Land of Oz