Climbs crack system using mostly face climbing technique. Crux near the top of the crack, then steps right up slightly overhanging jugs.  Excellent route that goes all the way to the top of the cliff.

Opulence

The Hand Out

Soul Patch

Unknown

Pigs from the Pit

Pay the Mortgage

Zippity Doo Dah

Arachniphobia

Freshly Squeezed

Turtle Power

Moochie

Dead Varmint

Mixer

Artz vs. Parker

Fresh Boy

Mr. Mogley

Weaver's Bottom

Institution Green

The Reed Parker

Begoon/Cote

Hilly Billy

Bulgarian

Country Love

Taxi Gaucho

If you can climb trad at this grade, this one's worth the walk.   Start at the overhang directly below the obvious finger crack splitting the upper face.  Campus up a move or two, making some committing moves to reach a stance on the face.  (no gear for the first 20 feet or so).  Place some gear and follow a short hand crack and jugs to reach a great stance in a pod with great hand jams.  Sew it up, the business starts here.  Work your way up a tips crack with a few difficult finger locks to reach a money lock and then a great horizontal (crux).  From here, the difficulty backs down as you follow a tight hands crack with an occasional face hold to the top.   (As of 7/09, there were no fixed anchors but a single bomber fixed nut can be used to lower off).

This route is not a hand out for a 5.11b! Start by climbing up the overhanging section to reach a good ledge. From here, head straight up and a bit right to reach the 3rd bolt. Use small holds to make a long reach to a wide horizontal hold that's only really good in 1 or 2 spots (crux). Clip the 4th bolt and head a bit to the right to reach the top ledge above the shuts and clip them on your left. If you head straight up to the shuts from the 4th bolt, it's definitely not 5.11b.

Stick clip first bolt. Pull roof using power and generous jugs near crack. Commence up face, staying to either side of crack. A nice handjam near the top is helpful...but also may summon the resident bat!

Jugs, edges, sidepulls, and a mid-way reach give the route variety.

This route is not listed in the Cater Guide, 3rd edition.  If you have any info, I'll add it to the description.   This is a very nice route!  Start by climbing up an overhanging face on good holds.  Diagonal up and left using some small holds to make a reach to a great horizontal ledge (crux).  Mantle up to reach a slabby face.   Make thin moves heading up and left to reach the anchors.   I expect this route to become popular once more people realize it's here, very nice!

Climb up the juggy face to the small alcove about 20 feet up. Place some gear and traverse up onto the ledge to the first bolt. Clip this and continue up the face to the top passing another bolt and gear placements.

A classic face climb with a little bit of everything.

A fun dihedral crack route! (...and, a rare Meadow River moderate.)

Stem, jam, layback, occasional holds.

Perfect movement with barely enough holds! Begin with easy climbing to a rest. Move out right just above the roof and tackle the first tough crux. Catch another small rest before tackling the wave arete. Once standing above the arete the climb is not over. A thought provoking slab section on the upper white face protects the final jug section to the anchors.

Start on the right and climb left to the ledge then have some fun and head up the crack as it works left and right.

Climb up the seeping corner to the V-slot under the roof. Jam out the roof and make your way up the dirty and awkward crack to the top. This route is dirty from top to bottom, with a nice mud mantle top out. It also has some fairly burly climbing for 5.10a so expect an adventure!

Interestingly enough, it smelled like something died near this route when we were climbing it but we never found the source of the smell.   Start out by climbing up to a small overhang to reach the hand crack.  Pull the small overhang using great jams to gain a stance (crux).  From here, follow the crack to the top on easier terrain.  There's great jugs and great stopper placements to the end.

The climbing is good, rock quality is all there the holds up high are increasingly tricky. The real crux is lower. This climbs like a sport route not a trad route.

Start Mr. Mogely. After the 2nd bolt veer right and go srtaight up the middle of the overhanging face. Easy crimping off of the no-hands leadge leads to to the crux at mid height. A single move from a sloping right hand crimp to a better, flat, left hand crimp. A few more easier moves on good holds leads back to the Mr. Mogely anchors.

Yep, after the first series of moves,

The Jungle Book

might come to mind.

Stick clip, surmount roof, and move right to rest (you'll need it). Here, you can reflect and strategize. Up, tip-toe left, and proceed using a full repertoire of edges, sidepulls, and a pocket (or two). Slopers await those who advance directly to anchors. (The blunt arete to the left is also an option.)

A great route!

Start at the left end of a low roof and follow the bolt line to the anchors.

Cruxes are back to back about 3/4 up the wall.

Impressive if this was an on sight first ascent.

There are a few moves in the beginning that can be a little reachy. Work through them and after you clip the last bolt, look to the left for a couple hidden crimps then top out to the anchor.

A short stretch of an acute corner takes you to a straight in finger crack. Then a juggy face to the roof. Exit to your right to the tree belay.

This short bolted line starts right at the road/trail.

Some really cool friction climbing at the bottom. Work the slopers under the seam as you arc to the left. After that, head on up with an interesting finish over the last bolt.

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Protection

Routes in 5 Sunkist Wall