Possibly the biggest holds you'll fall off of...

The 5.9

Reprieve

Mr. Dubious

Nendo Dango

Mas y Mas Moss

Nguvu

Dribble Glass

Poligrip

Supramanya

Fear of the Dark

Cuba and Nova's Block Party

Chocolate Chicken Pot Pie

It's every bit as good as the name implies.

Named AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) because a hard-core sport climber claimed he got nose bleeds and headaches from being two pitches up. You can avoid AMS by doing it in a single pitch and either runnering the mid-way anchor with a long sling or by clipping the first bolt on the headwall and then unclipping the anchor. Fun jug haul on steep rock. The first half to the mid-way anchor is mungy 5.8, but it's worth it for the fun climbing above.

Reprieve has three 5.11 cruxes with decent rests in between. Named in grateful appreciation that Upper East Fork was spared by the Las Conchas fire. Better rock than it looks, harder cruxes than it looks.

Low crux through finger pockets then cruise through easier (5.9-5.10) climbing to the top.  Route tends slightly right.  A great deal of time and effort was spent cleaning this route and the immediate surrounding area.  It is new and as Jason stated much of the rock on this wall is dubious and might pull off- especially if you wander off route into uncleaned areas on this wall.    This route is a good warm up for the harder head wall routes to the right.

Established a little over a week prior to the devastating Las Conchas Fire, this route ascends mostly good rock six feet left of Chocolate Chicken Pot Pie.    Straight forward climbing to the high first bolt leads to moves into grainy rock and the second bolt. The route steepens moving up past a third bolt into some bright orange lichen. Pull good pockets to the anchors.   It's a lot of climbing for three bolts.  

  Thankfully the Las Conchas Fire spared the beautiful Upper East Fork but many other areas in the Jemez Mountains will require reseeding efforts utilizing seed balls.

Ridiculous bilingual alliteration or very mossy slab climbing? It's both. If you thought Green Thumb needed more brushing, wait until you get on this one. Those that demand meticulously cleaned and brushed routes need not apply.

 Make some initial balancy moves on, yes, you guessed it, mossy and lichen-covered slab past a few bolts leading into a steeper bit of climbing. Use good holds up to some killer underclings beneath the crux roof/bluge to a good stance to clip the sixth bolt.

 Figure out how to pull the roof. To keep this section at 5.10, use the arete well to the right but it may go straight once [if] the upper slab cleans up but will be quite a bit more difficult.

 Finish on yet more mossy slab climbing to the anchors. On your way down kick off as much lichen and moss as you can or, better yet, take yer brush and get busy.

 I've spent a couple of hours brushing this down. Use the holds I've brushed and you'll be OK. I do think it'll be a fun line once [if] it cleans up a bit.

Pull through a short bit of typical-for-UEF chunky rock down low using some nice, solid huecos for three bolts to a big ledge. Traverse right and up on the ledge to clip another bolt and swing out left on steep rock but with big holds. Continue up trending right past a couple more bolts to a pronounced, hard to read crux on overhanging rock in a green streak. Finish in a small left-facing corner and crack.

The first pitch has been improved some--six bolts take you to the mid-way anchor. The climbing is about 5.8 and not too crappy, though it would never get done without the second part.  Dribble glass follows the far right side of the head wall. It's protected by five bolts and overhangs at about 60 degrees and is on amazing rock. The whole route could easily be done in one pitch, but it's nice not to have rope drag for the upper jug haul.

Can be done as either one or two pitches. The mid-way belay ledge is a fun place to chill and watch the action. The first half to the ledge is a 5.8 munge but worth the effort.

This shy route flirts with the difficulties of the steep dark streak left of "Nguvu" but avoids them with a short traverse. 

  Head up three bolts shared with "Nguvu" on occasionally flakey rock (10a?, easier if you know where to grab). Cut left with an easy traverse to a no-hands stance below the fourth bolt. Clip the fourth bolt and climb steep but juggy terrain below a small roof. Pull the roof (crux) with the help of some killer hidden pockets. Clip one more bolt if you like and make a couple easy moves to the anchors. 

  Originally rated 5.10b, the consensus seems to be that it's a notch harder. A fun route, whatever the rating, and it makes for a good warmup for the harder stuff in the Amphitheater.  

Harder than it looks, which isn't saying much. Fun moves on blocky looking rocks up a low angle, green face. Crux is a mantle move near the top. Will be a two-star route when it cleans up some more.

A big, tall and impressive wall with many steep routes. For the first few years of its initial development it was a popular destination but since 2011 or so it has fallen out of popularity and is likely to be overgrown at the base (and on some routes!)  If you're looking for solitude with a good variety of routes, it's a nice destination. Some sections of some routes down low include dubious rock between decent holds and rock.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Amphitheater