The first 2 pitches are quite good, I did them as one 160' pitch. The walk off leaves something to be desired like a trail.

Cockfight

Buzzbomb

Swingline

Lucky Charms

Ascends quartz filled rock to chains just left of the Crystal Cave. Entirely quartz sections are really interesting and unique, but the rock is very delicate and sketchy. I thought this route, like many Ron Cotman routes, was quite bagged- more like Leavenworth 5.9, and harder elsewhere in WA.

The route has consistent 15-20' runouts, and the consequences of a fall on any of them would be severe. There are at least 2 sections where you might as well be free soloing. I don't give 'R' ratings lightly.

5th bolt is kinda hidden, it's there, up and left. When you get to the white roof with black lip (see pic), STAY LOW below it. The (6th) bolt is at the far left end of the roof and is hard to see. This is one of the very dangerous runouts with both pendulum (on sharp rock) and ledge fall potential. The other is the 2nd bolt on frictionless quartz with a certain groundfall if you fell.

The crux moves are bolt protected, which says something about the nature of the climbing, hard slabby face holds. The route is well worth the journey up here. I have not explored Swingline yet but that looks great. The 2nd pitch crux is a thin crack but still climbs like face holds.

Swingline is a fantastic two pitch route that shoots up the middle of Upper Eight Mile Buttress.  The first pitch is 35 meters of some of the best slab climbing I've ever done in the Icicle.  The position is astounding with the immense North Wall of Mt. Stuart as your backdrop and Icicle road 2,000' below you.

It shows that Great care went into creating this pitch.  Small to medium gear supplements the bolts.  The moves are always a puzzle to unlock, and cruxes come at you in multiple waves, right up to the last few moves to the anchor.

Pitch two features mostly gear, with cruxy moves over two overlaps, with the second leading you to an exposed headwall crack to the top of the Buttress.  The second pitch is a bit gritty.

I must say Swingline is one of my favorite routes up there.  Thanks to Brad Metz for establishing this one!

A single 70m rope will get you back down easily. A 60m will leave you with some downclimbing on the second rap.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Buzzbomb Area