30 feet of full-value non-slab.  Consistent powerful crimps and hard footwork on a slightly overhanging to vertical face.  Holds often aren't quite as positive or big as you'd like.  Starts on top of the ledge on the right end of Paco's Slab wall.  Thug your way up the giant horizontal using a heel hook and a tight crimp, then follow the blunt arête feature up and slightly left.  Don't get tricked by the tempting holds to the right.  Good body position, strong toes, and sequence are important.  Consider using a stick clip, or anchoring the belayer... or both.

Bloods and Crimps

Slab and Punishment

Unnamed

The Leaner

Don’t Flake Out on Me

Paco's Slab

Climb the obvious bolted line down and right of Pacos Slab. Start on steep crimps, which leads to a slab crux and a funky bulge. Continue up moderate face to the tree.

Fun slab on good rock with lots of lateral movement. Start on the small finger ledge, use tiny inclusions to a stance and the first bolt below the jug pocket. Decide if the move to the jug is a slab dyno or not.  Protect, if you brought gear.  Follow the obvious line left to an undercling, up, then right to the sloper garden.  Find your stance in the bowl and the last bolt before the more vertical head wall.  Slab up and place your second piece.  Identify the bolt, and it will lead you to the chains.  Possible to climb as sport only, but a BD 0.75 and BD 1 will have you feeling happy.  Also an easy TR setup.  If you enjoyed Paco's Slab, you'll enjoy this one.

Big Rock doesn't have many cracks, but it makes up for it with a couple of short beatdowns.

 The route starts off thin fingers and rises up and left to wide. The crux is down low.

Follow the shallow left to right seam up into the roof while placing a nut or large cam down low to protect against a ground fall. Once under the roof move out left, no more than 10 ft, to a good stance under a dihedral. Place a piece or two and pull the roof using a couple hidden key holds. Be careful not to place gear in the detached flake under the roof. 

A fun enough route to go find on a busy day at BR or if you've knocked out most of the others in this grade. Getting to it may be the crux.

 Start on some poor quality rock. Tough edging leads to the first low bolt. Two more bolts on technical edging leads to a good horizontal break and a #1 camalot placement. A few more moves gets you to the anchors.

A few fun obscure routes in this area. They are slightly challenging to get to, but they all have some privacy.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Paco's Slab Area