Climb "Whats Love" to the big horizontal break in the boulder then make your way directly up and slightly right before committing to rocking over the lip

What Could Have Been

BlueRidge Beauty (BRB) Sit

Eye of the Whistle Pig

BlueRidge Beauty (BRB) Stand

Razzle Dazzle

What’s Love Got To Do With It (One Matt Wonder)

True Love

Roadkill

Humdinger

Up In Smoke

Betamax

Three Pete Wonder

Midnight Train To Georgia

Bring Your Own Oxygen

Largemouth Bass

Lower start to One Matt Wonder "What’s Love Got To Do With It"

 Starts left hand on good crimp and right hand in small slot.

 May have been done in the past.

Sit start the same as Midnight Train to Georgia and climb up and left into the start of beta max. This only adds 4 moves to the BRB stand but is a logical start and makes the link into Beta Max hard to set up. Do Beta Max to the break and then do the direct top out as for BRB. This is the king line of this boulder, climbs directly up the center from the lowest obvious point without traversing in from the low right.  

I started one Matt wonder/what's love got to do with it and made the move to the horizontal. Then worked slightly left and up to top out just left of the apex of the boulder.  Variations and alternate beta exists. I took the path of least resistance and the one that made the most sense to me. The last bit from the jug with the "wing" hold is probably v4. And the broken wing is solid, surprisingly.

 First ascent video here: youtu.be/S1AJamHVR2s

Climb the V7/8 Betamax into the top. Super proud line. Try the sit start for max points.FA video- vimeo.com/209496300

Start low and right with   right hand undercling on upper part of rightleaning roof feature and left hand edge just   above. Climb out and left on sharp crimps and   then up on the arete feature to finish by   dropping off at the lip.

Start standing far and left on the horizontal crimp rail to the right of the large block on the ground. Either pull on and dyno straight for the lip, or climb up using more crimps. A lower start is also obviously possible, but has not been done yet. It will likely add at least a grade to the difficulty of the stand start.

Starts 'One Matt Wonder' and goes straight up after the break with left hand crimps and right hand slopers into a crux to get both hands matched on the ear shaped flake. Then moves left into the top of 'Eye of the Whistle Pig'. The climbing is mostly independent though it does share the start and finish with other routes. Also, maybe the easiest way to the top of the boulder?Named for my love of the 12.2 boulder

*Don't climb this line** Park rangers have said this is too close to the road. please respect their wishes so we can keep climbing here. 

  Far right end, with your back to the road. Start low on the obvious start jug and work up and right. Use the big flake to pull up and over to stand. **Top slab is very slippery with lose moss. recommend jumping back down.

Start the same as Razzle Dazzle and go straight up. This is the farthest right line on the face and stays left of the arete. The climbing does not eliminate any holds but after the first couple, the climbing forces itself as in independent line. Which speaks to how good this one is!

 I was unsure of the grade, but guessed v9. This one will probably be a bit easier for tall people. This one also does not feel as serious to me as the others which top out the boulder. I fell from the move to the lip and it was fine. As always, opportunities for alternate beta and variations exist. I took the path that interested me the most.

 First Ascent video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oLLZeNinSE0&t=2s

 Apologies on the bad angle and lighting on the video. The sun made it hard to get any decent angle that day. But at least it gives you an idea of where the line goes.

Start on the far left side of the face on finger locks in crack feature and move up to obvious flat shelf. Then move out left onto slab and roll over using weird stand up sequence with a heel hook or bad toes. Finish up tall, easy slab.

 Variations exist for top out and finish.

 Its possible this one has been done before?

Start low on good rail in middle of face and climb straight up on pinches and crimps. Finishes at the lip. A slightly lower start from the right-facing sloper is also possible, but doesn’t really add much difficulty.

SDS with left hand low and right hand on the top of the swoop pinch and flat plate. Traverse right on good edges and bad slopers to grab the large horn at the op of the arete feature and finish at the lip. (Finish same as Razzle Dazzle)

The extension to Midnight Train and/or Razzle Dazzle. This one climbs the obvious ramp above the drop off from Razzle and Midnight Train. You climb the ramp and then into the top out to the left. Linking the ramp and the left holds is hard. 

Starts just right of Razzle Dazzle matched on edge which is better for left hand. Follow the seam out right and jump to the arete using a good left hand hold. Swing feet over and then negotiate a mantle onto the lower tier of the top of the boulder. I was not sure of the grade so please add your own suggestion.

Not sure of the grade, others will have to weigh in. I think it is a nice addition to the boulder as it is relatively safe yet still tops out. It is not such an obvious line but turned out to be fun.I was not sure if this crosses the threshold of being too close to the road. In my opinion no as the climber, pads, and spotters would not be in the road. But use good judgement and maybe wait until no cars are coming before climbing? Passing rangers did not stop me while climbing this. The name is for the look that passing motorists give when gawking at climbers on the boulder.Beta video: youtu.be/wmqR-xK4Hz8

Great bouldering rock right off parkway....park car in grassy shoulder.

What Could Have Been

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 12.2 Boulder