A great little route.

Stemming to a couple of lieback moves, followed by a nervy slab to the top.

The Nose

Leaping Lizards

Nylon Boy

South East Corner (The Corner)

Vainos wingspan

East Face Route

No Pigs

Yabo Mantle

One Pig

Boot Flake Direct Dyno

Three Pigs

Nose Eliminate

West Arete

Vivarin

Dihedral Left

Boulder 1 Traverse

Short Story

10-40

Endo Boy

Boot Flake

Undercling

Dyno for the left flake, then figure out a way to step up and reach for a good hold on the right, now figure out a way to do a long reach high up for a flake, step left (onto the dyno hold of Leaping Lizards) and then up the slab.

Fun and commiting.

Dyno off the side pull underclings, slap the sloper, and grab the jug. Worth doing every time.

Fun and athletic.

Good flakes lead upwards, with dynamic moves on steep rock, to a reachy move right for a two-handed flat hold - welcome to the crux (and final) move.

As the name implies, the south east corner.  Starts with a left side pull and right side pinch.  Balancy feet move you up to a small right crimper (just up and left of where the big flake fell off) and a left sloper.  Bounce up a bit higher to grab the good left hand on the half moon hold and you're there.

John and Guy showed me this one. It starts on the 2 inward facing side pulls  launch up with good feet to a large jug from the Jug plant your left foot on the right facing jug and leap up from there top out. They said it is a v2 and I would agree

This route is the down climb for Boulder 1.

Another variation to 3 pigs.  Simply don't use the 3 pin scars on the face but instead use the slopey crimps on either side.

Start up three pigs but only use the first of the pin scars with a big move up to the top.

Dyno to the boot via crimps directly below. Finish with the direct top out for style points.

A Stoney Point (and Rock and Ice) classic. Tricky start moves lead to the polished pin scars, a foot hold broke off recently which makes it a tad harder.  Avoid the pin scars to make it a V3.

Rock and Ice Issue #100: "500 Routes To Go At - Ultimate Tick List."

The crux is the lower portion.  Fry rates it 5.5, but it seems harder than that to me (broken holds?).  Fun route with sidepulls.

Start either in the short left facing corner, or directly below the ledge, 3 feet to the right.  Gain the ledge and balance your way to a standing position on the ledge.

Continue up the wall above to finish.

A tough mantel onto the ledge on the left.

With 2 great rest spots and 2 crux sections, this is a great, long warmup problem or excellent endurance fest to run laps on.  Slightly harder now due to the lack of the undercling flake left of Three Pigs that disappeared in late '07.  Many variations exist as well.  It is much harder to go straight left from Three Pigs now and easier to go higher and use the slopers.  Some go high around boot flake for a slightly easier version, while others go low there for the V4 version.

Probably can be done as easily as a v1-2 or as hard as one wants to make it.

Getting past the slopping ledge near the top is the crux.

Now that the flake is gone it is harder, but not to terribly harder.  Move up the face on very thin crimps and feet to the good high incut on the face.  Throw the left hand up high over the lip for a slopey hold, get the feet up high and grab the finishing bucket.

A good problem up the bulging wall right of

Boot Flake

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Start with crimpy balance moves on side-pulls, until the crux move up to a small, but good flake for the left hand is followed by a powerful layback to a good hold for the right.

Finish with no fuss straight up the wall.

Static or dyno to the top of the flake. Now suck up and head straight up on surprisingly worrying holds to the top. Some people exit left which is not as worrying.

A strenuous mantel problem utilizing a final chipped hold.  Starts off on a series of awkward moves to gain the undercling with slippery feet.  Once you suck up into the undercling, the chipped hold is easy to latch onto.  Now comes the hard part of manteling up onto the dish with very crappy feet.  Avoid the face scrape on the way up into the dish.

Done without the chipped hold in the dish is Yabo Mantel, which makes it much harder (V5)

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Boulder 1