Boldfingers is a bad-ass route on great rock- classic NC hard trad.  The climbing up to the crux is pumpy and fun, and the crux seam requires doing hard moves on small but good gear.  While somewhat contrived, as there is an obvious weakness to the right, the direct start is also really cool (unprotected highball v4 boulder problem to a stance).  Either way you do it, the route is killer.

Boldfingers

Pumping In Rhythm

Friday the 13th

Finishing School Blues

Blind Squirrel

Free for All

Razor Face

Zydygo

Golden Blend

Screamweaver

Static Klingon

No Ambitions

Leapin' Lizards

Chicken Head City

Southern Boys Don't Wear Plaid

unknown

Black Planet

Start on the right side of the buttress. Head up and slightly right through an awkward powerful section that gains a good stance. Cross back left and run it out on easy ground toward a horizontal under the first small roof and a bolt above. Stretch for the bolt to protect the first crux, pull it, then run it out again on good edges (5.9 ground) to a much needed placement. Climb to the 2 stacked fixed pins where you can get it all back on jugs. Make a long move and difficult clip of the last bolt on your way through the roof. Head up on good edges and plug another piece on a horizontal well above the bolt. Keep it together as you run it out one more time through tricky edges and crimps as you mantle to the 2 bolt anchor.

Caution, run outs lead to big whips, potential ground falls and sore ankles. On the date of submission there was a large loose rock under the first roof.

From the first bolt a right variation skips the initial crux through an anemic flake system.

An excellent, improbable route that is often overlooked. From below it just doesn't look like it should go, especially with no bolts. While intimidating, the protection is excellent and there is nothing but air to hit from a fall from the crux.

Climb the obvious corner to a ledge. Load up gear from a wide stem, and then hand traverse left on amazing holds. Around the lip, be sure to use long slings or you will be sorry! Double rope technique would work too. Embark into the amazing face above with horizontal cracks that eat up TCUs. This is the redpoint crux. Keep it together until you reach a ledge and easy climbing to an anchor at a tree.

This is an excellent face route that isn't quite as scary as the name would suggest. Climb steep and crimpy face past 3 bolts. Plug in some small units at a great horizontal and move slightly right. Slab your way to the top on a few small hybrid aliens to a 2 bolt anchor.

Good crimping will move you up and right past two bolts. Clip the bolt in the overhang and fire up, passing a hidden fixed pin to reach the pumpy finish. Rap from the tree at the top. Excellent and pumpy climbing.

On a recon of what is now Finishing School Blues I found that the steep face would require fixed pro. Just right of this steep face is an inside corner capped with an overhang. Squirrels bivy in a horizontal above the overhang. Be warned.

Crux is The last part. Very thin. First bolted by Doug Reed and Sent By Eric Zieche.

Thin face climbing to good horizontals for gear. Anchors at the top.

The obviousy steep flake feature on the right side of the Screamweaver cliff.

p.1- Sramble up to a point where you can undercling the bottom of the big flake. Lieback/jam your way through the steep section. Move slightly right, pull the roof, and continue up somewhat sustained, steeper terrain to a large tree at the top. 90', 5.10c.

Passing the second bolt. Anchors are much more recent. Route used to go straight up run out to the tree.

Worth the effort, If you can figure out the bouldery start. From the pedastel, launch into the thin seam crack with great pro to a bolt. Mantel the move at the bolt. Load up on whatever gear you can for the finish.

Option 1. Move right on easier ground for the original finish.

Option 2. Move left then climb just right of the arete.

Option 3. Fire straight up on fierce and powerful crimps.

There is a 2 bolt anchor at the top that serves all 3 options.

This route is located on the right side of the steep gully that separates Bold Fingers and Black Planet.  Spot two closely spaced bolts on the steep face about 30-feet above.  Scramble up 20 easy feet and then pull onto the steep face underneath the 1st bolt.  Tough crux moves on very thin holds lead to bigger holds and a 3rd bolt (hard to see from the ground).  Continue up the arching crack feature (gear) and locate a 4th bolt before reaching the bolted anchor.

Due to a broken hold, the opening 3 bolts may be closer to V5 or 5.12a/b.  Especially if you don't try to stem off the other face.

This route is located climber's right of Bold and Cold Fingers.  Scramble the right side of the gully that separates Bold Fingers and Black Planet and look for the initial bolt on the left (the right side bolts are for Static Clingon).  Very easy terrain.  Just below the initial bolt is an optional gear placement to protect the moves getting established onto the technical face.  Move through 25-feet of fun face climbing to the second bolt.  Get a good rest and plan your path through the high crux (bolts 3 and 4).  Optional gear above crux on easier slab terrain while you angle up and left to shared bolt anchors with Bold/Cold Finger routes.  Overall, a good route albeit inconsistent (crux is much more challenging that the rest of the climb)

Heads out a steep and pumpy right to left hand crack.  Rope drag can definitely be an issue.  There is a small area tucked in a corner where you could belay if you think you will catch drag.  Head around to the left on massive chicken heads then a short run out up the steep head wall.  Super fun climbing and much better than it looks from below!

This is a fun route that looks harder than it is.  While there is some choss-wrangling down low, the roof moves are pretty wild and fun.  Definitely worth the effort if you're in the area.

A decent warmup of an easier nature. If the crack gets cleaned out might be decent. the short arete is a little slick from lichen but fun none the less.

Start right of or on finishing school blues and climb up and to the right towards the obvious crack in the roof above. Climb the crack two moves till it deadens in dirt and traverse to the arete. Top out

A classic one-move wonder that climbs one of the coolest dihedrals around.  Clip the bolt, pull the hard move, clip the pin, then stem your way up and out the perfect corner to the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Screamweaver Area