Climb "Warm up 1" to it's third bolt (Warm up 1 crux). Then angle leftward through "Warm up 2" (clip 3rd bolt of Warm up 2, climb up and execute Warm up 2 crux). Next traverse across horizontal break into "Nut Job" (1-2 pieces of gear. execute Nut job crux). Traverse left just below the small roof and finish on the last two bolts of "Pocket Warmup" (crux of "Pocket warmup" and crux of entire link-up).   A fun warm up and a nice way to make for a longer pitch on a somewhat short wall...

Quail Stew

Top Rope Hero

Swim Test

Quality Control

Nut Job

A Red Recollection

Unknown / "Meaner than Green"

Mean and Green

Symptomatic

Fahrenheit 23

Social Distancing

Crack left of Leftwing

Great White Top Rope

More Choss Than Moss

Leftwing

Tramadol

Unknown

Now or Never

The Nordwand

Slab Me Harder

Slab Right

Get a Horse

Long Time Coming

Espionage

Unlisted Number

Secret Agent Man

Block Party

Purple Jeep

Sobriety Test

From Huston's topo:   A few pins remain as signs of previous passage.   Toprope off of the upper chains of A Red Recollection to ensure safe passage.   Grade is a total guess as of this posting.

Problem located below the left side of the sport cliff. Turn left on a trail just before the end of the cliff. The boulder is 20 feet down this trail on the left hand side. Can't miss it. Start on two mini jugs, go up right to a sloper, and straight up through another jug and undercling to the lip. Top out straight up over the lip.

This is a sweet problem that climbs a cool hanging block with an amazing iron band/tufa around the left end of the Qual Wall. It's a nice boulder to hit on your way back from warming up at the Lonelies.

 Start on a jug in the break under the block, and climb out on to the face using amazing iron band crimps, then bust out left to the arete.  Head up the arete, then move back right to top out.  

Perhaps the most enjoyable climbing on the wall, Nut Job is great warm up if you are confident at the grade. Named for the plethora of wired nut placements found along the route. Follow the obvious thin crack line in the center of the wall through jugs, and a few jams out featured rock. One bolt up high.

The year was 1996. Slick Willie was president. The Macarena was sweeping the nation. The internet was a torture device. And the U.S. sport climbing scene was still in it’s wild and rebellious adolescence. After a six month road trip of some the best sport crags in the nation at that time, Seth and I came back to Wisconsin with a whole new perspective on life. A Red Recollection was the first line we established here for obvious reasons, and it is named after the Red River Gorge, which I thought had the best sport climbing I'd ever seen.

 The line climbs the center of the wall up a unique "tufaesque" layback feature for thirty feet with awesome non technical stemming. The crux seems to come all too soon and involves a thought provoking bulge, which is passed on the left. Continue up to your choice of low, or high anchor.

The first route encountered when arriving at the Qual Wall from the Horse trail. 

  Follows a line of bolts up the face and takes the rightward line when bolts split at halfway.  Continue up to the sweeping headwall for the bouldery crux.

Mean and Green climbs the left hand version of the two routes on the first tall golden wall. They share the first 4 bolts. Crux at about 2/3 height leads to some amazing jugs up high. The quality can vary quite a bit on this route but a fun outing if you are not too offended by choss.

Classic highball for the park. Start in pit on obvious right hand sloper sidepull and left hand a little lower in the crack. Climb the arete through some nice holds. Trend a bit left as you near the top and finish to the left of the mushroom cap. Crux is low, top is easy but pumpy.

From Huston's topo:   Boulder through the first three bolts (crux), shake out, and then continue up the wall above avoiding the chimney on your left. The grade is unconfirmed. Shares the final two bolts and chains with the previous route.

A nice boulder for warming up or if you didn't bring a pad. Sit start at the bottom of the funnel and traverse right into the bear cave. Follow the continuing overhang to ledge. This is a low traverse boulder. Maybe someone will send a vertical boulder here but the landing is seriously sloped and pretty janky.

Directly left of Leftwing is a fairly parallel-sided crack. Stem up the bottom, then pull around a bulge before squeezing through the crack to finish. Abundant face holds and feet make it a comfortable lead.

From Huston's topo:   A top rope to the left of Now Or Never. Steep moves over an overhang down low lead to an arête above.

This was sandy, dirty, and a real bitch to set up on TR. I believe there was someone who once said "Why? Why not?"

Perhaps the most enjoyable 5.10 on the warmup wall, with a liberal grade. This route features fun, technical climbing on pretty good features. A few awkward moves at the crux detracts from the overall quality, but still a worthy route to get the blood moving.

 You can easily TR Sobriety Test or hang draws.

Tramadol: A narcotic for moderate to severe pain, with a high risk for addiction... Far right on the warm up wall, this "two" pitch route is quite unique for Wisconsin, providing a multi pitch opportunity for the novice climber to become addicted or to simply link the pitches, which keeps the pain away.

 Pitch one climbs up the short, small right facing dihedral found above the water grooved, weathered rocked. A few perfect jugs, and crimps to the ledge above. Pitch two leaves the flat belay ledge and up a few more bolts on the fluted rock to the highest point of the wall.

 Pitch one variation, start low and right of the first bolt and continue right of the bolt line to rejoin the route at bolt #3 for a 5.10- experience. Stick clipping the first bolt is highly recommended.

This is a dirty short route that is sledom climbed.

The left line of bolts on the S.A.M. pillar, Now or Never traverses up and left with very cool moves from near the start of a Red Recollection.  Crimpy moves take you up the steep face.  It's definitely harder (12a/b?) to stay on the face and avoid the jugs to the left.  Most stop at the first set of anchors over the bulge (same anchors for Red Recollection).

From Huston's topo:Start up the first three bolts of Secret Agent Man before stepping to right around arete and charging up the steep north face. Better than it looks.

Far right bolted line on warm up wall. Kind of jacked.

Possibly the most underappreciated, if not downright overlooked, cracks in Wisconsin. I am astonished that this has not been developed or heavily climbed in the last 10 years. This overhanging crack climb contains some of the most prolonged, secure, well-protected trad climbing in the area, but be prepared to work for it. Start out with somewhat heady and insecure for the grade, face and arete moves on the same line as More Choss than Moss. Upon reaching the overhanging wall, traverse right and continue up the obvious crack in the corner using great hand jams and stemming feet. The crux for me was the awkward mantle about 3/4 of the way up the route. Continue up the rest of the crack system and build an anchor on large ledge (or be prepared for a long runout and serious rope drag)."Get a horse!", as shouted to us by one of the horseback riders upon seeing us hauling our gear up the trail, accurately describes the feeling after topping out this climb. This is fantastic crack climbing that will work you in a relatively short distance, with very few breakable holds for how untouched the rock has been in recent years.

Start on a good undercling and bump your way up to a gaston. Turn it into a sidepull and top out left using one small hidden crimp on the ramp.

Climb to the upper anchors of Red Recollection (clip with long sling), climb right, clip the last bolt of Secret Agent Man, and fire the final ~V3 crux leading to the anchors of Secret Agent Man. Of course, don't stop until you top out Secret Agent Man (only clipping the chains below the lip invalidates the ascent, you know).    A 007 way to clip the anchors of a great 13a. Also a good warm up...  

Thin climbing to a mid-height crux.  Feet are the key here.  A couple steep moves on big holds at the top.  Chains and biners at the top.

Alongside the super classic Whiskey a Go-Go at Necedah, Secret Agent Man, has over the last couple decades, become a must do 5.13- sport route in Southern Wisconsin. This stunning face/arête line easily has some of the best rock in the Dodge, however, if you have spent much time walking cliff bands in the park, you know this wall is the 1% as far as roped climbing goes.Start up big moves on good edges and arête, then enter the short lived little dihedral. Work out left past a small bulgy boulder problem to gain an adequate shake above. Stay focused, and stay on the line, then launch into a series of breathtaking boulder problems stacked on top of each other on the left side of the sweeping, overhanging arête.

This route climbs the large hanging block between The Nordwand and Fahrenheit 23.  To start, climb the somewhat chossy chimney/inset to a good ledge in the left chimney near The Nordwand.  This is where the climbing really begins and becomes quite good.  From the ledge, there should be a small edge on the face of the block - grab this, establish on the face and start slapping up the block.  And keep slapping, heel hooking, and toe hooking until one can reach the perfect jug at the top of the block.  The actual hanging block is some of the best rock at the Dodge, but this is unfortunatly an eliminate (don't use the Fahrenheit 23 wall!) and merely a toprope.  None-the-less it is exceptionally unique climbing and a lot of fun.

If other routes are occupied or too hard try this moderate TR.

The the most difficult of the warmups, and it looks better than it climbs. Fun climbing though, with an assortment of holds. You can’t miss the large pockets. Shares anchors with Leftwing.

A sport climbing area on a small cliff band. The sandstone is generally solid with crimpers and slopers predominating. A topo prepared by Jason Huston is available below. At this time there is no further bolting of routes allowed.  MINIGUIDE TO QUAL WALLhttps://www.scribd.com/document/74534847/Qual-Wall-Topo

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 2. Qual Wall