A good climb up an obvious and sharp flake that creates a dihedral.  Straight forward climbing but the crux could easily result in a broken ankle if you fall on lead (foot jam, not ground fall...)

The Flake

Cakewalk

The Boys of Summer

Wasps Ripped My Flesh

Static is a Four Letter Word

Jigsaw

Dislocation Overhang

The Bulge

Waking Up In Duluth

Simple Corner

The Dihedral

Locomotion

New Corner

Corner Geometry

Beginner's Crack

Kindly Step Aside

Outside the Dihedral

Coming Unhinged

Bionic Finger Crack

Unknown 2

Scream

Crumbles

Two right Feet

Take Two, They're Small

Royal Robbins F12 Overhang

An easy TR set-up or a good lead, this route follows the first obvious crack line to climber's left of The Flake.  With excellent technique, this route goes fairly easily.  Without, it can get difficult quickly.

The Pagel/Kollath guide : Superior Climbs (out of print) describes it as a "flake, face, and jam crack" but doesn't show a detailed topo.I climbed up to an undercling and traversed right to a flake with a wide crack (4"). At the top of the flake I traversed left on a ledge to a topout crack. This seems to match the Pagel description and looks like the most enjoyable climb in that immediate area. 

A nice route that has multiple difficult sections - not a one-move wonder. Start up and left - then move back right and up to a short, difficult, dihedral. The traverse right can be done either low with the feet just above the roof or you can climb up and left farther before traversing right. I suspect the feet just above the roof is the original route. 

A fun face climb. Reasonably sustained. A slightly junky start soon turns to good rock. 

Face climb between Simple Corner and Beginners Crack.  Easier if you are tall.

Just to the right of Dislocation Overhang, this face climb is fun and not too obvious.  If leading you'll need to use the crack of Dislocation for gear...better yet, just TR from the same anchor

Located on the Tunnel Bluff, start up toward the obvious roof above a big ledge (Bionic Finger Crack is to the left).  Straight forward climbing to the ledge with tons of protection (small to medium cams and nuts).  The Crux is at the roof and requires a layback on some slick rock.  Commiting move but easy to protect with a #2 Camalot and a long sling.  After pulling the overhang gain the crack and enjoy the easy jamming to the top.   Fun little climb with lots of protection for beginning leaders.

Tunnel Bluff South West Face. The crux is probably finding a dry, mosquito free day, but this climb, despite the controversy it may create from the local climbing ethics police will be enjoyed by many. It is fun, clean (for the moment!), and well protected. No "set ups" required. 

  Pitch #1: Get immediately into the beautiful right facing dihedral finger crack, jog right to a bolt and surmount an overhang (awesome movement!) ending on some slab moves to a two-bolt belay. 5.9, 15m. 

Right facing cornerleft of New Corner.  Easy and not really worth the effort to lead...many people solo this but be aware that it is still 5th class (maybe 5.3...) and a fall will do a lot of damage.

Straightforward dihedral climb, easy moves to the top.

A stemming chimney. Start is a little junky but fun moves in the climb.  

Corner and crack just left of Bionic Finger Crack.  Easy climb - great first lead as the gear is solid the whole way.

Fun route and good lead for the difficulty. The easiest route on the NW Bluff Follow the right facing crack all the way up. Starts off as a 5in off-width for about 10 feet until theres a good jug. The cruxes are at the off-width at the start and the slopers at the top. The route is a little run out between the roof and the ledge to the right. Rock quality is good.

The crack in the center of the face just left of New Corner.  Easy but a good lesson on crack technique.

The route starts with a flake undercling over a roof and then starts  up a shallow dihedral just right of the left arete. Then pretty much go straight up staying right of the arete the entire time.

A large bulge with plenty of hand and foot placements, good for beginners to have a go at some rock.

Just right of the Flake; if you set it up right, you can climb both of these from the same anchor.  Climb just right of a small roof, and follow the left facing corner, as it gets progressively harder, to the top.  A nice climb that packs a punch for the grade.

Bionic Finger Crack is located on the Tunnel Bluff just to the left of Dislocation Overhang.  The climb shares the same easy first 35 feet (5.5) as Dislocation and then veers left up the obvious little seam.  Look for the little pocket, which will be of little use, and then try to jam your fingers into the seam and pull up.  If you are leading, your fingers will be in the placements and placing at waist level will be a trick.  Try to work your toes into the seam or toe hook the corner.  Smearing seems like a good idea and would be if the rock had any friction! It's short, but sweet and will make you feel like a real dude!

Eric and I played around on this, as well as some other local climbers (Sean Taylor, Guy Evans,etc) so I am not sure on the FA. 

  Crimps up to a funky flaring pod to jam at mid-height, which is the crux.  Finish straight up

on the left/south wall, just outside the east/far entrance to the cave.

 Looks fun and interesting from the ground, but the rock quality is terrible. I was trying to be careful and rocks/debris came crashing down more than once.

 This route should not be climbed, since the rock quality is lousy.

From Superior Climbs: "Although its not a bad route, this climb is rather particular because it is neither obvious nor direct; its sort of like always being off route. Best advice: when in doubt, step right." 

 Additional commentary: Anchor up top can be made pretty far back from the wall. There are multiple variations that look more fun than stepping right. They look more difficult than and with worse pro then if continuing right. Would not recommend leading.

The crux is the beginning, hard to figure out how to start. Work your way around a small roof and go straight up.

 Note: A set of glue-on bolts were just placed for sport (not sure who set them or if they were done correctly, the first bolt is about 12-15 feet up). There was a set of TR anchors up that got used but were determined to be unsafe and cut off on 3/26/20. 

Smear and stem your way to the overhang then reach up onto the face to a solid left facing layback.

Ely's Peak is Duluth's prefered home crag and lays within the Duluth City Limits.  Climbs are short and relativley straight forward with a mix of crack and face climbing on solid basalt.  There are two areas here as well as some bouldering.  Climbs on the Tunnel Bluff are about 60' and closer to 45 or 50' on the Northwest Bluff.  Duluth and the northshore area have a chalk free and bolt free ethic, though a few crags have started to sprout bolts.  DO NOT BOLT at Ely's Peak and please leave bolting at other crags to the locals as folks up here are super senstitve about ethics.  In general, DO NOT BOLT is the area.   The local schools and camps occassionally host classes at Ely's Peak so be prepared to share the crag.  Mornings are generally quiet.   All climbs are easily top-roped and a few are good trad leads.  Although there are a couple of stout routes here, the bulk of the climbing is in the sub 5.11 range with most of the classics (if such short climbs can be called such) in the 5.6 to 5.8 range.   Worthwhile climbs include Dislocation Overhang (5.6) and Bionic Finger Crack (5.12a) on the Tunnel Bluff and Corner Geometry (5.6), The Flake (5.7) and The Bulge (5.8) on the Northwestern Bluff.   Get gear at W-Trek Outfitters or Vertical Endeavors and get beer at the Brewhouse, all in Duluth.     Make sure to follow the new climbers access trail just left of the Superior Hiking Trail to access the climbing...DO NOT cut across the private property. 

  This area has access issues - make sure you know where to park so you do not get towed...also, the DNR is issuing tickets for trespassing so stay on the climber trail!!!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Ely's Peak