On January 16th, 2019 a large rock fall destroyed much of Prototype/Dr. Seuss Wall, with climbs from Eight Flake to Bongo Fury now gone, including this climb. Take care climbing on limestone!

 One of the best 5.10 climbs at Reimer's. Prototype is the right most of two lines that share the first bolt (the other is Mas Cerveza, 5.11) just to the right of the shallow dihedral at the base of Clone Call. The start overhangs a little - pull up onto a bulge using a good flake. Be sure to clip the first bolt before making any moves up the bulge or you could deck if you slipped. Look for a good two finger pocket with the right hand while you pinch with the left. Pull through the bulge to a good stance (crux). The middle part of the climb is thin, but has plenty of rests. Look for a great hold at the last bolt (a "squirrel cage"). The second difficulty on the route is moving from the last bolt to the chains. There are some small edges, and good finger pocket just below the top.

Prototype

Horton Here's a Tufa

Buttered Side Up

Socks On Chicks

The ReKleiner

Smitten Psychopath

Yertle the Turtle

Blowing Smoke at the Monkey

Eight Flake

There's a Wocket in my Pocket

Bongo Fury Direct

Sugar

Star Belly Sneeches

Flinch

Thing 1 Thing 2

This climb is no longer available. The wall has collapsed.

Really fun technical climbing on small tufa features takes you to the roof.  Tough pull through the roof to a hard finish on slopers.

Easy dihedral-like climbing until the roof and 4th bolt.  

 Great edges/ledge to establish while pulling the roof. Then use shallow pocket to bump right hand to pinch side pull. Then use left (smallish) pinch and bring right leg up. Place left root on ledge and flag right leg. Bump for a bomber pocket. Easy from there.

Some technical face climbing to a monster jug

Prototype Wall and a section of Dr. Seuss Wall collapsed on 1/15/19.  This route no longer exists.

Smitten Psychopath is the first climb on the left side of the Dr. Seuss Wall.  Look for a prominent, short arete with three bolts.  Belay from a narrow ledge that runs along the base of the wall.  A couple moves off the ground lead to a solid ledge.  From the ledge climb up and left through a small overhang.  The last clip is ballancy.  The rock is a little sharp on this one, and the climbing looks easier than it is.

Good fun on 11- holds/moves to a tough crux at top.  I remember this climb as being a climb that started making me realize good technique will make some hard climbs feel really easy once you get it all down.

Some good holds lead up to a shallow left facing corner which can be climbed in a variety of ways, delicate or powerful, reachy or not. Eventually a big hold up and left is reached, rest up for the push to the anchor. Some sloping holds take you back right and up to the anchor at which point there really is not a good hold to clip from. 

  This route packs quite alot into its 25 feet of so. 

Newest route on Dr. Seuss wall. Go left past the small roof and around the corner as if heading to Shortcake wall. This route is all alone next to a small tree, crux is low as the start is trickier than it looks, and the top is no gimme either.

Really fun face climbing to the roof.  Stay right for the easy variation that fits the grade.  Working left is harder and the pockets are EXTREMELY SHARP.

Right of Yertle the Turtle. This is the furthest right route that is intact since the rock fall in January 2019. 4 bolts to chains, no sport anchor.

A variation of Horton Here's a Tufa. After 2 bolt, traverse u dear roof and finish on Star Belly Sneech finish.

8/9/2019: This are has been reopened thanks to the efforts of Travis County Parks, Austin Climbing Coalition and many volunteers. Please note all routes to the right of Yertle the Turtle were destroyed and exposed rock may be fragile and dangerous.

 1/16/2019: A large section of this wall has collapsed and the entire area is now closed. Please respect the park's closure and stay away from this area. This includes hiking. All routes from the Grinch to the right have been destroyed by massive rock failure on 1/16/19

 Like the Dead Cats wall, this face is an ultra-popular area. It has a great mix of sport climbs from 5.8 to 5.12. The base is shady throughout the day while the upper portions of the climbs on the right side of the wall will be in the sun from Noon on. These routes are well bolted and well maintained. Bring along 10 quick draws some long slings and lockers for the top bolts and a 50 meter rope and you'll be set. All routes are single pitch with the descent via rappels from the anchors.

Description

Protection

Routes in Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall